quote:Originally posted by italia11:
But I figure it's worth $500-$800 to me to get the system somewhere near right when it hits my door.
Agreed. I spent a fair bit on Holley parts setting up my 700 DP, and there are only two each of fewer variables. Being close to correct at the start would be worth a premium.
quote:Just out of curiosity...how do you plan to set your Cleveland up?
A previous owner put in a bit more of a cam, and the car has real headers. It has MSD ignition, rev-limited to 6500RPM. I'm not sure what kind of power it makes. (I was supposed to find out tomorrow, but my dyno day has been deferred again.)
I don't really care how much power the car has, and there are a couple of reasons for this.
First, for a street car there are no rules; anyone with more money than you can build a more powerful motor than yours. With a race car, the challenge is to have the best motor you can within the rules, and what's more, you get a chance to prove yours is best.
Second, for 99.9999999% of the time, all that power is worse than useless in a street car. Outside of on a straight, deserted highway or the salt flats, I defy anyone to keep their accelerator pedal on the floor for more than 10 or 15 seconds straight. If the pedal isn't on the floor, you obviously don't need the power. Racing is another story; you are either hard on the gas or hard on the brake, from the start until the checkered flag.
My goal with these Webers is to have a motor that is highly responsive to the throttle. Responsiveness is more important and more fun in a street car than absolute power.
I loved jazzing the throttle linkage on my freshly-reassembled Formula Ford motor whenever I first lit it up on reinstallation in the car; such a crisp response, both for climbing and falling RPM. The sound was so unlike a street car, which takes forever for the RPM to drop. And... it had a Weber.