Reply to "Weber carbs - owners speak out"

You don't luv us, trust me, it's the Buttery Nipples talking.
You can email me at hammer99@erols.com.
Me personally, I don't see any point in a hydraulic lifter CJ with Webers. They are for performance. You run a solid lifter, triple valve spring, titanium valves, high compression engine (rev limiter is a great idea incidentally). I don't agree with anyone who puts them on JUST for looks. That's rediculous. That's like buying a nuclear device because you like the black paint on it.
Webers aren't necessarily faster off the line, but they are better then anything I have ever driven coming out of a turn and they play over 100 like...well you have to experience that to believe it. I rember putting 10 lengths on a supercharged 66 GT350 and I was waiting for him.
I got a glimse of him beating the steering wheel with both hands to make it go faster... but back to your questions.
The 140 main is more representative to the size of the engine more then anything else. 289's take 125/215's. It will run on a box stock CJ cleanly. You can idle them down to a 125 m (with proportionate air corrector) and pretty much be limited to about 5500 rpm like a rev limiter. The F5 would stay the same. You coud use 65 idles on that one also.
You also need to get a unisync. You can't work without them. Idle screws should be between 1/2 turn and 3/4 turn out. I like about 5/8.
The size of the chokes is more signifigant to your useage and capabilaty of the engine then anything.
You can use 32mm (custom made for you) like Hall does. That's the most you should close them down. Personally I think thats a waste of carburetors.
I'd recommend useing the stock 37mm and go up as you feel. 42mm will change the entire nature of the carb and engine and move the torque peak up.
You could prove that you lost torque by that move but not by me.
A 42mm choke engine means that you flat out whale on it, no holds barred.
If you assemble all the parts we suggested, can bolt the thing together, and adjust the linkage with the unisync then you really don't need much help from me. You have been granted the knowledge of the ages, I certainly don't know much more about them.
I do recommend that you do use a manifold with the center pivot tower like Hall makes for the Pantera. It works great with the Pantera's stock pull throttle cable.
The side pivot would be for a C in another chassis like the Mustang. A lot of these manifolds are modified Hall manifolds. The Mustang guys like to mill the tower out and grind Hall Pantera off of it.
Inglese Inductions is right near us in CT. His prices on the parts you need are as good as anyone else and he's got everything that you need.
Also, count on needing the hottest ignition you can put in the car. There is just a "little" tendancy to foul the plugs.
As far as tuning your car? With all due respect, I'm way over my head with what I've got already.
With any luck I should be done with my stuff by the next millenium... hopefully.
I'm only on the Net 'cause it's my form of group therapy ( and cheaper).