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Reply to "What cleveland block to use for HP engine?"

quote:

On boring cylinders, the issue isn't hitting water jacket with a 0.030" overbore, the issue is the cylinder walls getting thinner than a universally accepted minimum for a cast iron cylinder wall, which is 0.120" thickness on the thrust surfaces and 0.080" thickness on the non-thrust walls. Flexing and heat cycling of the cylinder walls is exacerbated when the walls are made thinner by boring AND by higher bhp and rpm levels.

your friend on the DTBB


I understand you there; I've read from some folks that they took their Cleveland block in to have it bored .030 and the machinist hit water. I'd have to see it. Mine ran a bit warm, but I was also running the standard style stat in it - not the one with the "flange" that directs the water from the restrictor plate up through the thermostat. I'm sure that was one big factor. Didn't realize until lately that the C engine needs a different stat than a Windsor. I'd like to have mine sonic checked, but I'm not building it to make much more than a stock 4V's horsepower, and frankly it will live a pretty comfortable life in an old convertible. I'm banking on good power to weight ratio to give me what I want, more than 7500 RPMs and 12:1 compression. A stout build and I'd definately have it at the shop getting checked. Who knows, my own paranoia might land it there anyway.
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