I just redid the clutch in my car. Many of the modern ford style 10 1/2 inch clutch casings have a higher sharper shoulder profile than the older shapes bringing them closer to the inside surface of the standard bell casing.
The two internal standard bell casing to gearbox machine screws at the bottom of the bell case are around 3mm closer into the rotational arc of the pressure plate case than the rest of the bell housing. If these are replaced with a low profile head ( still high tensile) machine screw the overall swing clearance can be increased by 2-3mm which can be critical to fitting a particular clutch.
Once its fitted make sure the entire clutch assembly will swing through the full orbit without touching anything internally. I had one spot hang up on those internal machine screws and had to pull the entire lot to fix it.
You can also burn out your starter motor solenoid in short order if it binds .
Don't ask me how I know,,,!
On a standard set up , release the rear gearbox mounting bolts , loosen the exhaust and gearbox linkage , jack up the car at the rear , two timber toms onto the rear of the sump casing of the engine from the floor and carefully ( really carefully ) lower the car until the rear gearbox mounts clear the chassis mounting ears. The rest is straightforward.
No need to pull the engine just watch like a hawk the front clearances on the fire wall.
In your case there is the issue of the very fine turbo set-up which will require separate consideration.