If you have Halls for the 4v iron heads, it may be easier to cut the flanges off and weld on the correct ones?
Besides the slightly different mounting bolt pattern (overlay the header gaskets for both on the heads and the headers) The A3 ports are about 1" higher than the iron head exit.
Even if you can get them to bolt up, the tubes will be too high and the deck will not close as a result.
I don't know if you can get the 4v headers to fit as a result? They are not the same at all. You are much better off with headers made to fit this A3 set up specifically.
He did make the headers for the A3 heads, which is why I have these.
Even so, a couple of the tubes are less than 1/2" away from the decklid and if you don't use a heat shield you will fry the lid.
Incidentally I think these headers and the upward exit of the A3 exhaust ports are as close to perfect as you can get in all likeliness. It's like those heads were made for this configuration.
Here they are ceramic coated. Makes them look like mill finish stainless. The only problem with the coating is it makes them look cool all of the time which they are not. Got burned several times on them thinking they were cooled off.
The stainless xxxx panel is to shield the carbs and the vacuum log which you can see peaking out below.
There is another part to the heat shield that mounts inside the deck lid AND there are addition shields to protect the deck lid shocks as well.
This was the point at which I was hooking up the vacuum manifold to the vacuum gauge and trying to get a pcv valve to work.
That one looks like it is going to require a seperate vacuum pump to make it vent properly? Being told that will yield 25 hp from the same set up is sedating me into accepting that as a solution and being happy and not angry about that.
Three things I love on this set up are #1 the Webers, #2 the headers, #3 the heads. Those I can't live without. Everything else is negotiable?
Those pieces of rubber fuel hose over the ss tubing are for where the engine screen rubs on them.
