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Reply to "Windsor Swap"

George,

So far, I'm still moving forward down the 5.0 avenue (mostly due to the fact that I don't think Santa is buying my 'reformed' status Roll Eyes). I think that Ford's factory EEC-IV FI system (as used on the '89-'93 5.0 Mustang) can be easily adapted to our Panteras. The entire system is stand alone. With this new Trick Flow intake, adding a high pressure fuel pump, and O2 sensors to the exhaust would be all that is required to get it going on a Pantera. I'd have to go back and check my notes, but if I remember correctly, the wiring harness only needs 3 wires connected to make it operational.

I had one of those Mustangs back in the day, and NEVER had an issue with it's drivabilty in the many years of hot summers and cold winters. It took modifications of 400hp on the factory settings with no issues and 20 mpg on the highway.

To tune and troubleshoot, all you need is a scanner to read codes (that can be had for $50 or less these days), and a handful of sensors - all of which are very cheap should one need replacing. I even know how to go into the computer to turn off the distributor and turn on crank trigger and coil packs. I can even turn on a knock sensor for additional timing control (pinging from a bad batch of gas, or if under boost).

ANY Ford dealer or decent mechanic can sevice this system. Parts, including the ECM (computer), can be found ANYWHERE!

This system (with crank trigger) would eliminate the roll pin issue that our Clevelands can suffer and leave us stranded (which happened to me with my '74). Do I run a bronze or steel gear with my cam, and how long will it last? Points or electonic internals? MSD, Mallory, or Ford distributor? Pertronix Ignitor? <-- No longer issues!

For those who like the original carb/aircleaner look, Mass Flo EFI makes this system for the Cleveland for around $3,200: http://www.massfloefi.com/mass...351c-efi-system-p-19

Once you get this system going, you can more or less forget about it. It doesn't need further attention. If a sensor does fail (or goes out of parameter), you will be notified via a check engine light that you can run right to your dash (it can be a tiny inconspicuous led if you like). The computer will hold the code and lead you right to the culprit. That's a HUGE advantage over carburated systems!

I think this system is a no-brainer.

Michael
Last edited by cyboman
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