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Reply to "Mangusta Engine Removal and Rebuild"

Mike, yeah. pretty much once the car is assembled, the only thing you can do to avoid the electrical action is to keep it dry...and paint is at least a way to keep the metal electrically isolated. At build, putting tape over the steel is the best way, but luckily you don't have that option .

  When attached directly, DeT used copper rivets--for example the engine covers, where the support strap is attached to the aluminum trays...or on the hood at the front edge. I've got no idea how this helps, unless it drives for just the opposite of isolation (by quenching the voltage to zero maybe?)

Cosmetically, all the inside of the rear (that the driver could see thru the back) is blackened. For paint lines, the combination of 8ma1074 and that gold car show I think how the factory blackened, https://pantera.infopop.cc/top...for-sale-in-michigan , esp black over the latches, over the "roll bar" at B pillar (everything to the inside of the roof edge and up to the chrome/vinyl edging) and then covered with the gasket),  but the outside-facing channel of the spline is body color.

8ma1074 was downright peculiar with the blackening line for the hood/engine covers, esp in the way the black was carried over onto the aluminum (where anybody in their right mind would have taped at the edge of the aluminum). That and the blackening on the forward interior edge of the door...so freaky that only a factory would have done it (!) And I'd love to see confirmation in another car, so hoping that Steve's pictures of 8ma716 (before it was re-painted) agree.

  8ma1046 was original paint, but since all black not so easy to distinguish the flatter blackening...

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Images (3)
  • Paint line on the aluminum
  • '1074 right hatch
  • 1074 hood paint line
Last edited by leea
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