What is the correct finish on a front rubber bumper on a L model? Mine has been sprayed with some type of semi-flat paint. Were they natural finish or painted? If painted, what is the correct way to refinish it?
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They were natural-finish black rubber. Most guys use some sort of cleaner or "bumpre-black" stuff. This may buid up over time, I guess. If its been sprayed with paint, you should be able to safely strip it with paint-thinner solvent; just don't soak the rubber or you'll pull the softening agents out, leaving it brittle. They're already 30+ yrs old and getting a little hard.
Jack - Is there anything I can do to take some of the "warpage" out of my "L' bumper? Other than the asthetics of it, the bumper also rubs on the hood when I have it full open. I've thought about carefully cutting off the offending rubber, but don't want to make it look worse. Any suggestions?
Thanks - Paul
Thanks - Paul
The warpage in my L bumper was due to the internal metal reinforcement being totally rusted away. I wound up replacing my bumpers with the aftermarket fibreglass ones from Hall. Since my car isn't stock anyway I had them painted high gloss black and they look awesome. They also took a surprisingly good hit with no damage when I had a small trailer mishap a few months back. I have been pleased with both the fit and finish of the product.
As to the hood rubbing on the bumper when it is open, mine did that also. I found the cure to be cutting about an inch off the prop rod so that I didn't need to open it quite so far and it doesn't rest/rub against the bumper. The amount that the hood isn't open is hardly noticeable.
Good Luck
Gary
As to the hood rubbing on the bumper when it is open, mine did that also. I found the cure to be cutting about an inch off the prop rod so that I didn't need to open it quite so far and it doesn't rest/rub against the bumper. The amount that the hood isn't open is hardly noticeable.
Good Luck
Gary
One was done by a member from Temecula CA on his show car. Basically, he removed the bumper, cut a recess in it from the bottom, and bonded in a steel plate some 16" long. The plate was bonded with a type of rubber filler made for fixing urethane noses on late model GM cars. It's compatible with both steel & bumper-rubber. He also went in from the top with flat-head machine screws, then filled the holes. Careful sanding of the cured rubber filler afterwards made the repairs nearly invisible. OEM bumpers are outrageously priced so this may work for you, if you don't want a fiberglas substitute.