I removed the headlight bar in my car. I am going to lift my headlights with individual L/R motors from a 1999 Firebird (I think that is where they came from). Here are some of the mechanical photos:
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Nice work Gary .... I think your idea is going to work better then stock ... and shed some wieght while your at it.
Ron
Ron
I am going to experiment with control circuitry. One side will be operated with limit switches. The other side I am making a servo circuit.
quote:and shed some weight while your at it.
Maybe, maybe not.
One motor vs. two motors. One drive mechanism vs. two drive mechanisms. Two new motor mountings, two new linkage systems vs. one cross bar. Looks like the pivot axles have been beefed up and true bearings added; good for operation, but heavier.
Would hope you will take weight of removed parts vs. installed parts. I applaud the creativity, but not sure you're saving weight and surely not making things any simpler.
Larry
remember the wieght comparison is :
the old gear drive
the old 5' long shaft
compared to two new motors .
The headlight assemblies look about = in wieght
the old motor with bracket look about = to the new one.
Ron
the old gear drive
the old 5' long shaft
compared to two new motors .
The headlight assemblies look about = in wieght
the old motor with bracket look about = to the new one.
Ron
quote:Originally posted by LF - TP 2511:quote:and shed some weight while your at it.
Maybe, maybe not.
One motor vs. two motors. One drive mechanism vs. two drive mechanisms. Two new motor mountings, two new linkage systems vs. one cross bar. Looks like the pivot axles have been beefed up and true bearings added; good for operation, but heavier.
Would hope you will take weight of removed parts vs. installed parts. I applaud the creativity, but not sure you're saving weight and surely not making things any simpler.
Larry
Weight is about the same. It wasn't about making it harder or simpler. I wanted the bar gone and I wanted to do it this way.
Just out of curiosity I weighed the headlight motors. The old motor and mechanism was 62 oz. The new motor and gearbox is 32oz. That part comes out equal.
In addition The center part of the bar removed was 62oz. The new bearings and parts were just a couple oz.
In addition The center part of the bar removed was 62oz. The new bearings and parts were just a couple oz.
The best advantage is now each headlight can close independent of the other to a flush position.
The present scheme uses(1)pair of limit switches for both headlights, but the stopping position flush is not necessarily true for both sides. I don't know if everyone has this problem but I do.
The present scheme uses(1)pair of limit switches for both headlights, but the stopping position flush is not necessarily true for both sides. I don't know if everyone has this problem but I do.
Funny you should mention that. I was just playing witht he linkage tonight. The main idea is the motor would stop either fully up or fully down. By doing so if the motor malfunctioned it could not over rotate. If it did it would not hurt anything as it could move a full 360 degrees.
Second, with the motor stopping at apex a few degrees either way would not effect travel much.
Third I am going to alter the headlight bar lever arm to have a threaded rod where it to can be adjusted. Other wise the hole drilled has to be right on the money. And it will be easy to adjust travel as well as up and down limit.Here are a few photos of playing with it:
Second, with the motor stopping at apex a few degrees either way would not effect travel much.
Third I am going to alter the headlight bar lever arm to have a threaded rod where it to can be adjusted. Other wise the hole drilled has to be right on the money. And it will be easy to adjust travel as well as up and down limit.Here are a few photos of playing with it:
I wrote an article for PI about a year ago about a modification for the original motor lift. I fabricated aluminum stops for the buckets designed to stop against the rubber bubbers in the fender in the up position. This was to stop the bouncing bucket problem because of the rod arrangement. This also gave me repeatable up position as well.
I am curiuos about your arrangment the up position without stops. Remember the up position is critcal because the angle is greater at a distance where the light hits the road than at the pivot point in the fender.
I designed a motor control for the Pantera headlight system to complment the mechicanical changes, so if you need motor controls for your motors let me know I would glad to help. Nice job in fabrication and design!
I am curiuos about your arrangment the up position without stops. Remember the up position is critcal because the angle is greater at a distance where the light hits the road than at the pivot point in the fender.
I designed a motor control for the Pantera headlight system to complment the mechicanical changes, so if you need motor controls for your motors let me know I would glad to help. Nice job in fabrication and design!
Thanks, I am going to tackle the circuitry on my own; that's where the fun is. I am going to use limit switches on one side just to see how well it works but on the other side I am using a servo circuit witch will maintain position with pulse width. We'll see how well that works.
Gary
Gary
quote:Originally posted by Jon3613:
I wrote an article for PI about a year ago about a modification for the original motor lift. I fabricated aluminum stops for the buckets designed to stop against the rubber bubbers in the fender in the up position. This was to stop the bouncing bucket problem because of the rod arrangement. This also gave me repeatable up position as well.
I am curiuos about your arrangment the up position without stops. Remember the up position is critcal because the angle is greater at a distance where the light hits the road than at the pivot point in the fender.
I designed a motor control for the Pantera headlight system to complment the mechicanical changes, so if you need motor controls for your motors let me know I would glad to help. Nice job in fabrication and design!
quote:The present scheme uses(1)pair of limit switches for both headlights, but the stopping position flush is not necessarily true for both sides. I don't know if everyone has this problem but I do.
You could probably shim the one that is good to raise it to the same height/angle as the other one.
I know it doesn't take much to bend the bucket brackets. Some one could have easily closed the lights with a something in it such as a towel which could have tweaked it a little.
Made the headlight adjuster tonight SWEET! Ran the motor just watching the thing go up and down! COOL!
Control circuitry:
The headlight circuitry is working. I will build a new one on a clean board but at least I have the details worked out. The servo in the photo has been gutted and is used to sense motor position. The headlight motor will go forward or back based on current position vs target position. The blue wire toggles it up/down:
It looks to be a radio control airplane type servo? If the servo is gutted, what is in the servo housing now, potentiometer? I assume the relays drive the motor? Thanks for the pics.
Yes, the r/c servo is the servo minus the motor and gears. The pulse width modulation is fed to the servo. The r/c servo circuitry still intact. The grey wires coming out of the side drive the relays through mosfet's. The r/c servo will be easy to mount as a position sensor.