alternator I think

The stock alternator is a plain-vanilla 63 amp Ford unit, available at any parts store. The regulator, if stock, was one of those with points and solenoids inside; it has been replaced by a same-sized-case unit with a tiny circuit board inside. If you can live with 63 amps and don't ever drive worst-case (headlights on, AC running, radio on, in low speed traffic so the alt isn't charging positive), then the fix is less than $75 for new and probably less rebuilt. There are same-sized drop-in units available up to about 120 amps for more $$, as are the single-wire replacements. Personally, I'm still on the OEM alt but a replacement regulator in my '72. I'd replace the cheap regulator first, then the alt, after being real sure there wasn't a short somewhere.

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Originally posted by jack deryke:
The stock alternator is a plain-vanilla 63 amp Ford unit, available at any parts store. The regulator, if stock, was one of those with points and solenoids inside; it has been replaced by a same-sized-case unit with a tiny circuit board inside. If you can live with 63 amps and don't ever drive worst-case (headlights on, AC running, radio on, in low speed traffic so the alt isn't charging positive), then the fix is less than $75 for new and probably less rebuilt. There are same-sized drop-in units available up to about 120 amps for more $$, as are the single-wire replacements. Personally, I'm still on the OEM alt but a replacement regulator in my '72. I'd replace the cheap regulator first, then the alt, after being real sure there wasn't a short somewhere.

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Jack I already bought another alt the old one tested zip on output and had a bad bearing. I checked out the regulator and it showed 27.5 volts. (a little high) I also found a fried wire on one side of the resistor on the alt. light. The resistor checked out. I'm picking up a regulator tomorrow. I think I'll have the original rebuilt with more amps. If I understand you correctly a bigger amp alt will drop in with no other changes right?

Yup- they use the same frame as your OEM. FYI, if the weathers bad right now and you feel confident working with electrons, you could try JC Whitney's increased-amp rebuild kits. They advertise them as being do-it-yourself-easy, cheap at less than $40 and the only downside is reduced amperage at idle but much-increased amps at cruising speed. Dunno if that's a characteristic of all high-amp alts, or just their parts, and reliability is also unkonown. Remember, more amps means more load on the drive belt(s) and crank/waterpump bearings. Also, Ford's supplier made 120-140-amp alts for Ford police cars, but I can't tell you if those use the same frame as our little 63-amp units.

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Originally posted by jack deryke:
Yup- they use the same frame as your OEM. FYI, if the weathers bad right now and you feel confident working with electrons, you could try JC Whitney's increased-amp rebuild kits. They advertise them as being do-it-yourself-easy, cheap at less than $40 and the only downside is reduced amperage at idle but much-increased amps at cruising speed. Dunno if that's a characteristic of all high-amp alts, or just their parts, and reliability is also unkonown. Remember, more amps means more load on the drive belt(s) and crank/waterpump bearings. Also, Ford's supplier made 120-140-amp alts for Ford police cars, but I can't tell you if those use the same frame as our little 63-amp units.

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Thanks Jack for your help. I think I will look into that "Whitney" upgrade and will pass along any info I come up with....Pappy

I talked to some people at Alterstart. (I think in Texas) 800-607-0016. They said they can rebuild a stock 65amp. alter. to a 100amp. for about $100.00. So, no need to change the bracket or cut any wires. Just a thought.