Has anyone out there used the hall super stopper IIs or the movit kits? Impressions.
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Be careful of some "big-brake kits" not clearing the inside of your front wheels. Some fit 15", some fit 16" or 17" wheels and a few fit only 17" wheels, so this is a sort-of hidden expense. If you expect to run open-track &/or open road events and run hard, stock 0.81" thickness vented rotors won't work much better than stock solid rotors before warping. For 'severe duty' brakes, you need big 1.25" thick rotors and appropriate calipers. Hall's kits I believe use modified Corvette calipers & thick rotors that do clear Campy wheels. The brakes on post-'80s Panteras are huge and work well for competition but are extremely expensive to add to early Panteras. Just another few things to decide & check on before you write that check.
quote:
Originally posted by jack deryke:
Be careful of some "big-brake kits" not clearing the inside of your front wheels. Some fit 15", some fit 16" or 17" wheels and a few fit only 17" wheels, so this is a sort-of hidden expense. If you expect to run open-track &/or open road events and run hard, stock 0.81" thickness vented rotors won't work much better than stock solid rotors before warping. For 'severe duty' brakes, you need big 1.25" thick rotors and appropriate calipers. Hall's kits I believe use modified Corvette calipers & thick rotors that do clear Campy wheels. The brakes on post-'80s Panteras are huge and work well for competition but are extremely expensive to add to early Panteras. Just another few things to decide & check on before you write that check.
Hey Jack
I am running 18s all around. Are the post-80s brakes the Brembos? Are they expensive to fit on earlier Panteras because of the cost of the kit or because they are not a direct fit? I would prefer to get the best street brakes available.
With 18" wheels, you'll have no problem with any kits. The factory big-brakes were huge iron 3-piston Girlings & thick vented rotors used on the GP-4 LeMans cars & later made an option on GP-3s; they became std on the GT-5 series in '80. They're expensive because DeTomaso sells them directly or thru Wilkinson, but they are complete & do bolt on, even the weird pliers-action e-brake system. I added them to a home-made GP-3 car in the mid-'80s; the kit included 4 complete suspension uprights fully assembled with Aeroquip hoses. A 4-hr job & many $$$
I ran the hall super stop II's for a while.they are a good street/mild race brake.one thing they do is put the rotor on the outside of the hub which moves your wheels further out and you should use longer studs which hall sells.if you get the long studs you need to run a die on the threads because they seem to be a hair thick on the thread.I recomend the big willwoods and be sure to keep your original calipes for the e brake or get willwoods e brake calipers.avoid the hyd. e brakes.they are good short term but lose pressure long term.hope this helps.
quote:
Originally posted by grngt5:
I ran the hall super stop II's for a while.they are a good street/mild race brake.one thing they do is put the rotor on the outside of the hub which moves your wheels further out and you should use longer studs which hall sells.if you get the long studs you need to run a die on the threads because they seem to be a hair thick on the thread.I recomend the big willwoods and be sure to keep your original calipes for the e brake or get willwoods e brake calipers.avoid the hyd. e brakes.they are good short term but lose pressure long term.hope this helps.
What did you replace the super stopper IIs with?
Do you know how dificult the Wilwoods are to install?
Are there any quirks to the install like with the super stopper IIs moving the wheels?
[This message has been edited by madguy (edited 06-29-2002).]
I went with the big wilwoods.They cleared my 15' aftermarket wheels(Prime),but you should always check your wheels because brands vary. they mount on the inside of the hub so your offset wont change.one thing you do want to do is get a bigger master cyl. with a good size reservoir because the calipers require more fluid than the stock ones(especially the rear!were those things off a vw bug or something?).You will need a press to pull the hubs off the rear axles and be very carefull when you do this as the rear bearing retainers are not the strongest things in the world.As you press the axles use a rubber coated dead blow hammer,not a regular metal hammer,hammer on the uprights to help shock the axle free if its rusted to the bearings.The big brakes are definetly worth it,i bruised my shoulder on the seat belt testing them!I feel much safer in the car now.Hope this helps with the decision process.