Cut off, a better one

I took a different route. Since I always cut the battery off when the car is not in use I ran the negative cable under the dash and bolted it to a key battery cut off. Is a great theft deterent and give me piece of mind that it wont burn down my garage along with 4 other cars. It also keeps the batter in better charge when it sits for weeks.

I had that on my Longchamp, and also had hot starting problems. When I removed it, neg straight to the engine, the starting problems were gone.

I dropped one of these things in, and just push a button to disconnect or reconnect the battery - saving wear and tear on the hood latch. I wouldn't give it a wholehearted endorsement though - I had one burn out when my voltage regulator started kicking out 16-18volts, & I suspect it may have had something to do with some gremlins last fall when I had a low battery situation (it has some safeguards to keep you from draining your battery, but I think it might be overzealous and give you grief if you have to put on the 4-ways). For me the pros outweigh the cons, but I still carry wrenches to remove it and go with a direct feed should the need arise.

That battery guard would be perfect for a Mangusta because the battery is back by the tail light.
On my Pantera the battery is under the front floor. I mounted a kill switch in the bulk head down by the passengers feet but towards the centre of the car and then used a fibreglass rod from a tent to extend the switch up to the back of the centre console - I then mounted a knob on the end. I can reach around and turn it from the drivers seat. I never leave my car with the battery connected even for a short period. I dont trust Italian electrickery!

Johnny

To be more specific, what I'm looking for is a cut off switch at the battery exactly like the one pictured, but with a bigger contact area and probably a much higher price...

I had one of these blade-style cutoff switches on my car when I bought it, but removed it and replaced it with the style you pictured above. This one sticks up rather close to the underside of the hood and I was concerned about it contacting the hood, arcing and starting a fire in the event of even a small fender bender.

Yes, it looks like it can handle a lot of current, but as you say, quite high (and ugly)

My battery, like Johnny's, is in the floor box in the front trunk.

I used this Moroso switch mounted up through the floor from the passenger foot well. The cable connections are there.

It probably would be a good idea to install a "whole car fuse", 100 amps or so, on the battery plus terminal in the box also in case of a high impact where the battery or the cable somehow is shorted to the chassis? That is really the only drawback to the battery being inaccessible.

This switch otherwise is very useful.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-74102

If you were racing the rules would make you put it outside of the car with a big yellow arrow pointing to it so the track workers could find it quickly in the event of an accident.

There are many variants of the cut off switch above, I have seen a number of Panteras with the one that has the red plastic removable key, which adds a second measure of security.

Summit has over 100 battery disconnects in various shapes and sizes; so many you could almost write another book

http://www.summitracing.com/se...ttery%20switch&dds=1

Julian

Yes, there are many possible cut off switches, but what I don't know is which ones let the current through well with a large contact area.

quote:

Originally posted by No Quarter:
Yes, there are many possible cut off switches, but what I don't know is which ones let the current through well with a large contact area.

The Moroso I showed you is a 300 amp switch with a 2000 amp surge capability.

Isn't that what you were looking for rather then these little wimpy things?

If you want more capacity, better inquire with NASA?

Mikael,

Virtually every switch on the Summit Racing search has it's amperage rating listed. The PICO with a plastic key and $15 price has a 350 Amp continuous and 500 Amp surge rating and I've seen plenty on Pantera's. Don't be fooled by the fancy switches on steroids.

Julian

Thanks, but I want something that bolts right on the terminal, no more holes in the body. I found one that has a 125 amp versus mine 100 amps, so I'll leave it for now. But somebody should fabricate a better mousetrap, the guy that marketed the green thumb wheel one must be a billionaire.

I have the green thumb wheel one and about to change it out for something under the dash as it's a PITA to open the hood, take off the battey cover (later factory lowered battery box) and disconnect or reconnect the battery.

Julian

Looking at the engine screen from the back, under the right hand support side, within that little triangle area that supports the right hand cover, is my cutoff switch. With the deck lid closed and no glass in the engine bay side windows, I can reach through the passenger side and disconnect everything. It's not visible externally and is very easy.
It's NOT useful for track events though.

I choose to mount my cut off under the dash because its a PITA to open the trunk every time I use the car. The routing required no holes. I ran the negative battery cable unde the dash thru an existing hole and bolted the cut off to the reinforcement bar under the dash. Works perfect with no reduction in amperage. The trick is to clean all paint off of the mounting point.

The idea of the shut off is to mount it as close to the battery terminal as you can.

What is it supposed to do? Mounted anyplace is fine for cutting electron leakage in a garage or as a sort of amateur thief deterrant while having dinner, but the idea of a racing-legal cutoff switch is for it to be immediately accessible to course workers in case you're upside down & unconscious with an electric fuel pump merrily humming away. We no longer race so its in the front trunk but not under the dropped battery cover.
As for connecting, my cheapo is soldered into a battery cable and that took a torch to put enough heat into the thing to melt the solder.

I have a shutt off here: http://www.poca.com/index.php/...g2_imageViewsIndex=1

Have to open the hood, but what the hey, I don't drive it all the time anyway. Sure saves the battery.

I have the green knob special, and see no performance hit electrically at all. Admittedly, I have a new aftermarket gear drive starter, which is awesome, but do have a Powermaster 140 amp alternator to keep up with the fans and lights.

quote:

Originally posted by DOES 200:
I have a shutt off here: http://www.poca.com/index.php/...g2_imageViewsIndex=1

Have to open the hood, but what the hey, I don't drive it all the time anyway. Sure saves the battery.

Mine is there like that too, except I have mine coming through into the passenger footwell.

It's easier to service there.

I'm still leaning to a "whole car" fuse right on the + on the battery though.

Having the battery down in the well does create accessibility issues.

Every time I have been in the ER waiting, I can't help but notice how one in a million shots these accidents are.

Pulling high amperage cables through sheet metal bulkheads isn't the safest thing in the world to do.

something a little different but something like this has crossed my mind. I don't know if it would work but I don't see why not?

http://content.westmarine.com/...og/large/3831393.jpg

Not the most sexy maybe. But yes a possibility, and often Marine products are good to look at, superior quality, rust proof. I've learned two marine ways that I apply to the Pantera: Double clamp all hoses and every non engine bolt/screw that I take off is replaced with A4 stainless.