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I like to change my decklid dampers because they are not strong enough to hold the decklid.

I found some OEM parts which look a bit different but they would fit.

The total lenght is 415 mm, expansion is 160 mm and they are available from 400 to 800 nm power.

Does somebody knows the correct pressure which is necessary to hold the decklid. I tried 400 nm parts but they are not strong enough. I will try 800 nm models when I will get them at the end of the month but I am interested to know the correct data.
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quote:
Alfred Hisieh mal diesen Thread..ist aktiveGas strut strength - Joules (13)Peter Fenlon /UK hat diese Firma in UK ausgegrabenSGS Engineering..the bauen "custome" Struts (so heisst das in English..hatte auch keine idee)Matthias


Practicing my German -

Hi Alfred!

You should look at this thread - It's active. Gas Strut Strength - Joules (13).

Peter Fenlon in the UK has this company that he has assen-grabben (found) - SGS Engineering. They have "custom" struts - so they say in English - How much they cost I have no idea.

Rocky
Why not support our vendors, in the US or Roland in Hamburg? They have found and know exactly what length and strength are needed depending on whether you have rear wing. I hope that what you found fits your car, but it could be a lot of trial and error?

Sometimes we Pantera owners go out of our way to invent what has already been "invented" before. In Danish there's a term that translates to "crossing the river to get some water".

Just my $0.02
Mikael I would agee with you in some respects.
and I can assure you I have spent lots of money in the USA and with Mr Jaekel.

On a $200 dollar purchase from the USA I pay £48 in import duty.

I also like to find solutions myself, its part of the Pantera experience.

Further, I don't have the cash to just Pay for

what I want, I sometimes wish I did. best Peter
Using deck lid struts with a wing has always been problematic. Wing weights vary all over the map so a generalized strut pressure will often not work. Too little gas pressure in the strut and the lid sags. Worse, too much gas pressure and the steel roof warps! Yes- this HAS happened and is is not cheap to fix! Because of this, most U.S vendors will not sell struts that are above a certain strength. Ted Mitchell's Vader Enterprises sells a pair of strut-lift mechanisms that use coil springs and an over-center link similar to mid-'50s U.S cars hood-lift systems, rather than gas pressure struts.

Possibly the best cheap solution is stock-pressure gas struts and a strut clamp that some U.S vendors sell for a few dollars. Once open- possibly with owner assistance, the 'clamp' snaps over the extended strut-rod on either side (only one side needed), keeping the strut and deck lid from moving down until the clamp is removed. No tools involved and the clamp stores unobtrusively.
Stock deck lid struts are positioned such that the rubber boots collect thrown-up rainwater. It leaks past the boot-tops and a lip on the top of a stock shock body holds the water so rust pits form on the rod. This helps to fail OEM gas seals. If a fitting is added to repressurize a failed strut from a home air compressor, pits quickly fail a new seal too- if one is installed. This is a difficult job as OEM struts are not meant to be rebuildable.

In the past, we mounted still-useable stock shocks upside down to eliminate water catching; this sometimes requires a small mod of the brackets. New style struts are far lighter, cheaper, more available and can be purchased in about 5 psi increments. Too much pressure and as I said, hinges & panels bend & break.

My new-style struts (from a U.S vendor) are 12 yrs old & still hold up the stock lid. Fiberglas deck lids can be over 40 lbs lighter than stock steel; that may be an option too as a lighter lid with a heavy wing will likely need less gas pressure in the struts to work. Good luck.

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