Engine paint scheme

So you have me curious now.

These are from my '73 engine that I was the first to pull. It looks like most of the plugs are painted.

One is not - maybe it was replaced in the car?

Not sure if this is applicable to the '71s.

Rocky

Here's the forward ones....

The engine was painted as an assembly. Everything that was on the "long block" at the time was painted.

That included the intake manifold (but not the carb), the valve covers, the oil pan.

Some engine lines had the exhaust manifolds off but most did not, so most engine lines got the manifolds 'partially' painted.

The distributor was not painted.

Freeze plugs were on the engine block at that time but because of the shrouding from the exhaust manifolds most are not completely covered in paint.

You are going to find though that with any Ford car that is being "Concourse" judged, the amount of paint is going to vary and be a constant source of discussion.

Rocky's second pic shows the plugs that have bare spots as to what I would expect an original factory painting to look like.

I would say that those are original to the Ford build.

The thing with the Clevelands though is the color of the blue paint.

Technically Ford will tell you that there is just one color, Corporate Blue, but the color is lighter on the 302's and darker on the Clevelands.

Thank you Pantera Doug! This gives me exactly what I need… I always try to get things to be correct especially on an unmodified car. Your help is appreciated!
Jim

Contrary to a lot of opinion, I do try to help when I can.

Lately I get the feeling that I'm going to get snapped at like Jack Nicholson does in "A Few Good Men", "you can't handle the truth"?

I'll just leave it at that and say that I'm glad that this helped?

quote:

Originally posted by PanteraDoug:
The engine was painted as an assembly. Everything that was on the "long block" at the time was painted.

That included the intake manifold (but not the carb), the valve covers, the oil pan.

Some engine lines had the exhaust manifolds off but most did not, so most engine lines got the manifolds 'partially' painted.

The distributor was not painted.

Freeze plugs were on the engine block at that time but because of the shrouding from the exhaust manifolds most are not completely covered in paint.

You are going to find though that with any Ford car that is being "Concourse" judged, the amount of paint is going to vary and be a constant source of discussion.

Rocky's second pic shows the plugs that have bare spots as to what I would expect an original factory painting to look like.

I would say that those are original to the Ford build.

The thing with the Clevelands though is the color of the blue paint.

Technically Ford will tell you that there is just one color, Corporate Blue, but the color is lighter on the 302's and darker on the Clevelands.

Doug, Can you advise who makes rattle cans with the correct (darker) shade of blue Ford engine enamel for the 331C? I have bought paint from Hirsch in Newark, NJ for past (non-Ford) projects and their paint quality is good.

Also, on a different topic ... is there a thread containing the procedure for removing the engine and transaxle as I need to get my leaking gas tank out for repair or replacement.

Thanks, usmcfred

'72 Pre-L
# 03041

Fred -

There is a procedure in the Pantera Technical Information Service manual. Removal of the Transaxle is in Section 16, and the Engine & Transaxle in Section 21.

Apparently You Can Buy This for $28??

Anyway - several tips I would give you:

1. Be prepared for Antifreeze all over the place - there isn't really a drain bung at the lowest point of the cooling system.

2. You need an Engine Hoist with an extra long boom. In addition, it helped me to remove the rear bumper - it gave my engine hoist about 3-4" more of access.

3. Take it very slow - you have to continually change the angle of the engine and transaxle as you are pulling it out of the car (generally pulling the transaxle up to work the engine out to the back of the car).

4. You want a "low profile" engine attachment fixture - it's tight between the roof and the top of the manifold.

5. Make sure the car is as low as possible when you pull the engine - don't have it on wheel dollies or anything.

You can see my setup, and what I am talking about in this thread... Scroll down a few posts....

5357 Engine Install - Just Look at it Backwards!

Try this with regard to Paint Colors....

Mustang Engine Color

quote:

Originally posted by usmcfred:

quote:

Originally posted by PanteraDoug:
The engine was painted as an assembly. Everything that was on the "long block" at the time was painted.

That included the intake manifold (but not the carb), the valve covers, the oil pan.

Some engine lines had the exhaust manifolds off but most did not, so most engine lines got the manifolds 'partially' painted.

The distributor was not painted.

Freeze plugs were on the engine block at that time but because of the shrouding from the exhaust manifolds most are not completely covered in paint.

You are going to find though that with any Ford car that is being "Concourse" judged, the amount of paint is going to vary and be a constant source of discussion.

Rocky's second pic shows the plugs that have bare spots as to what I would expect an original factory painting to look like.

I would say that those are original to the Ford build.

The thing with the Clevelands though is the color of the blue paint.

Technically Ford will tell you that there is just one color, Corporate Blue, but the color is lighter on the 302's and darker on the Clevelands.

Doug, Can you advise who makes rattle cans with the correct (darker) shade of blue Ford engine enamel for the 331C? I have bought paint from Hirsch in Newark, NJ for past (non-Ford) projects and their paint quality is good.

Also, on a different topic ... is there a thread containing the procedure for removing the engine and transaxle as I need to get my leaking gas tank out for repair or replacement.

Thanks, usmcfred

'72 Pre-L
# 03041

The "Concourse" Mustang guys are having it mixed with a hardner. It lasts longer than the "rattle cans" do.

They are telling me that you have to flatten it 25% though.

The technical answer is that it is Ford Corporate Blue PERIOD.

The reality is that the color from the Cleveland plant was darker than that from the Windsor plant.

VHT Ford Blue is about as close as you will get and I personally leave it at that.

If you had a valve cover or an air cleaner that you liked the shade of but the VHT did not match, you can have someone blend the color to match it.

I don't think that it is worth the effort.


The trick to pulling the engine is the angle. TGIF. Toes go in first.

It helps if you balance it like Rocky did but my solution was to build a "T" head that slips over the boom and the chains bolt to the side of the heads.

The scary part is that you need to pick the assembly up much higher to get the angle than you would on a Mustang.

Once you "man up" it really is very easy. Just take a rawhide chew that you would give your dog and bite on it while you do it. It helps some?

...oh and wear dark colored pants in case you have an "accident" and someone is watching.

quote:

Be prepared for Antifreeze all over the place

Place a small plastic bag over the water pump inlet and secure it tightly with a rubber band or tape. Do this BEFORE lifting the engine.

Bolting a chain to the rear most exhaust manifold bolt holes gives almost perfect balance and angle.

John

The factory used a rod to the zf to keep the angle right.

There are screw in plugs in the block, one on each side that if you remove them will drain the coolant from the engine to that point.

That will reduce the anit-freeze spillage.
Do that in the car before you remove the engine

Stock 'freeze-plugs' were plain steel (Dorman replacements are galvanized steel or are brass) and stockers are notorious for rusting through even if you are the 1 in 1000 owner that changes antifreeze every single year. I can tell you that only ONE plug can be reached for replacement with the Pantera's engine in place (left rear). So I suggest using brass plugs and paint them if you must for looks- brass is completely rust-proof. Galvanized steel is not.