Engine tilt at acceleration

Martin HI HI
I did a full rework in my case in the engine fixtures. The Bolds which do fix the engine mounts to the engine were BROKEN!!! Was not to easy to see from visual inspection as engine at rest is heavy and sits on the fixture. Is a SAE thread..app M12..

As a consequence of a broken engine mount fixture the gearbox fixture is AT DANGER..as engine moves..tilt as you say..DANGER..expensice..

Matthias

Thank you Matthias, I will do a more thorough inspection, to conclude that the bolts are ok.

Martin

well on mine the rubber "disk pair" on each side for decoupeling the engine from the chasis was worn out ..looked liked fully bent on the inside..which then does NOT support the torque withstand as engine winds up..you need to check please this as well as same symptoms.

Mine were the original rubber (good as long lasting and restant to temp) did replace them by polyuretan...
Matthias

picture..

Two problems here: first, the rubber disc(s) will compress on the block side of the motor mount assemblies. This stresses the upper mount bolts, which will break or unscrew and fall out. Cheap fix is to rotate the discs 180 degrees every few years so the compression is spread out and never gets to the wedge shape that breaks bolts. Too late for those discs pictured, though.

Second, if you run the engine hard, heat from the left header will quickly MELT aftermarket polyurethane discs, causing much trouble since the left side mount must first be disassembled to remove from around the gearshift rod, and melted poly runs all over the assembly, then hardens. We had to chisel it off in place on the engine in order to separate the mount, before replacing the mess again with OEM rubber. This happened with new poly discs within 15 minutes at a track event. Good luck-

Is there an OEM reference for the rubber discs?

quote:

Originally posted by Bosswrench:
... if you run the engine hard, heat from the left header will quickly MELT aftermarket polyurethane discs, causing much trouble since the left side mount must first be disassembled to remove from around the gearshift rod, and melted poly runs all over the assembly, then hardens. We had to chisel it off in place on the engine in order to separate the mount, before replacing the mess again with OEM rubber. This happened with new poly discs within 15 minutes at a track event. Good luck-

gotta be a way, would a simple heat shield protect the poly bushing? a 1/2" stand-off tacked to the header with a patch of SS attached should make a world of difference

Agreed this can be a problem. When I removed my engine, I found two motor mount bolts broken off in the block.

I made heatshields that I mounted "behind" the headertube with a hoseclamp. I found out that the bushings was affected by heat during camshaft breake in procedure. I use aftermarket bushings...
Note that my engine is lighter than a Cleveland

quote:

Originally posted by René #4406:
Is there an OEM reference for the rubber discs?

Here's a Ford Number... D16Y-6038-A

quote:

D16Y-6038-A

Thank you

Conclusion so far - no bolts broken but one bolt to the engine block was actually loose. On the passenger side, the upper rubber insulator seems to have developed the wedge shape. So, more things on the "to do" list.

Thanks for the help
Martin