I suspect no value- the internal seal is 40 years old and could let go any second, rendering the pump useless. Advertise it to a Ford collector and get a new pump of some type. As with most such parts, there are three different aftermarket types.
#1 is a straight-blade 'paddlewheel'impeller;
#2 is a straight-blade paddlewheel impeller with a sheet metal plate on the impeller's back (so-called 'high-volume')
#3 is a cast curved-vane impeller with integral high-volume backing plate.
The price goes up noticably from 1 to 3 above, and the amount of water pumped MAY increase if the output is into a bucket but not if its mounted on an engine. The truth of the matter is, the main path to extra water flow comes not from modified pump$ but a modified thermostat, which is the main impediment to more flow. You can prove this to yourself quite easily: after running the car fairly hard, check your water tempo gauge; it will likely be well over 200F. Then let the engine cool off, remove the thermostat entirely, and go duplicate the run again. The gauge will likely be around 150F. This is without regard to brand of radiator, water pump or other changes.
Notes: changing from a 192F thermostat to a 160F thermostat does NOTHING to lower driven engine temp! The impediment is the thermostat's body, not when it opens. A high FLOW thermostat with drilled holes in its body will lower your water temp a little as the car is driven. A cheap aluminum water pump will drop 7 lbs off the weight of your engine but not change operating engine temps. A $150 high-volume water pump will also not change your operating temp.