Fuel Leak...........

You mean yours doesn't leak around the bowl? That's where mine leaks. Practically impossible to stop. JB weld won't hold up, neither will any mechanical tightening.

Wipe some of this stuff around it. It's not permanent, but will stop it short term. Find it any auto store.

I wouldn't worry about a fire either, carburetor weeping is pretty common.

Absolutely NO fuel leaks should be accepted.

I would get rid of that Carburetor and buy a new one. There are plenty of "out of the box" suitable Carburetors.

1. Pull Carb
2. Pack INSIDE The Fuel INLET to Catch Debris
3. Drill-Out Plug with a #7 'Tap Drill' (Bit)
4. Tap Bore for 1/4-20
5. Clean out All debris after Tapping and Vacuum Out THEN Remove the Packing
5. Clean Contact areas with a Degreaser (Acetone) And Then DRY!
6. Install 1/4-20 Set Screw with Locktite 'RED' or suitable Sealer
7. Reinstall Carb
8. Pressurize and Inspect for Leaks


OR, with Carb In Place
1. Take a Punch and Drive the Plug in Just Enough to Create a 'Adequate' Depression. Clean, Degrease and FILL Over the Plug with the Best Sealer. (I) would use Locktite 'Blue'. Because Locktite Works on the Principle of Corrosion.
2. Let 'CURE' Over-Night
3. Pressurize and Inspect for Leaks

You could also drive that plug in Deep Enough, Then Drive a Second Plug IN On top of the first, with Sealer ON IT. Be Careful Not to Drive the First Plug In Too Far!! This is probably what I would do, because I could do it in about 3 Minutes. Be sure to Degrease all, so the Sealer/locktite will Adhere.

Good Luck with It

P.S. Have a Great Time at the Car Show, with Peace of Mind

Ron, welcome to the 4300D. That carb and I have a long frustrating history with each other, dating back to the 1970s and extending into the 1990s.

My advice, eliminate the fuel leak for now (are you guys sure JB Weld wouldn't work?).

But as a permanent solution, and to achieve superior engineering and performance, I'll ask you to consider a 1970/1971 vintage factory manifold (casting number D0AE-9425-L) and a 750 cfm Holley 4150 style replacement carburetor having these features:

(1) annular booster venturis
(2) electric choke
(3) vacuum secondaries
(4) "street-performance" calibration
(5) well designed high-capacity fuel bowls
(6) ease of calibration when needed

Summit Racing's 750 cfm carburetor meets all of that criteria. Its reasonably priced, and folks have had good experience with it. I consider it the most cost effective replacement for the 4300D (which was also rated at 750 cfm).

RRS1: I found some Seal All (thanks!) and used it mostly as per Marlin Jack's (thanks!) instructions to eliminate all fuel leaks (thanks goodroc!)
Frustrating is right, George (thanks!) and my question regarding that Holley/manifold is the usual "will those fit under my stock one piece early engine screen?"
This plug was "cocked" and loose in the bore, so I removed it, cleaned it up, glued the o-ring back into it's groove at the top, scored the sides of the plug for traction,cleaned everything liberally with acetone, coated everything with "Seals All" and then tapped it squarely/slowly into place until the o-ring was seated. An additional coat of sealant is now curing overnight, with a pressure test/road test planned for tomorrow am.before work and that car show still planned for Saturday.............

I don't think anything that is exposed to gasoline will work long term, locktite, JB weld, or the stuff I posted. You just have to nurse it if you're going to keep it.

One compound I've found WILL resist gasoline indefinitely- including the witch's brew sold in California as 'gasoline'.

Bondo.

My tank had a small perforation about halfway down as-received when it was 8 yrs old. I dented the place for more surface area, then covered it with Bondo as a temporary fix. It's now 47 yrs old, and has yet to leak again. It does have to be clean & dry when you 'fix' it. Some day when I next pull the tank, I'll braze the hole up. But for now....

Ron the earlier manifold is no higher than the spread bore manifold. Anywhere the spread bore manifold fits, the earlier manifold will fit as well.

Good luck with the car show.

Ron,
Where's the car show?


Steve

Steve,
What started out as Chuck Bank's idea to bring his Pantera because his wife is a teacher at Maria Carrillo high school in Santa Rosa (6975 Montecito Blvd.) has now morphed into at least 4 Panteras, a Ford GT, and a few others at least thinking about attending, hopefully including you!..............
Ron

quote:

Originally posted by Bosswrench:
My tank had a small perforation about halfway down as-received when it was 8 yrs old. I dented the place for more surface area, then covered it with Bondo as a temporary fix. It's now 47 yrs old, and has yet to leak again.

Is the tank steel or aluminum?

Ron

Sorry Ron. That's a little too far on short notice. Keep me in mind though. It's the season so I'd like to get together with some other Panteras.

Steve

...I've Brazed a few USED Fuel Tanks. To Prevent them from 'Blowing Up', You FILL them with Water.
A Empty Gasoline Tank is 'Potentially' More Dangerous than a Full Tank. Just My $0.02 Might save someone a Lot of Heartache...as in Not Blowing Their Face Off!

P.S. How was the Car Show?