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1717 has been getting alittle hard to start after getting warmed up and went through George's checklist to see what the problem could be.
1) Checked and cleaned all power leads from battery to starter, including grounds and at starter solenoid. No change.
2) Pulled battery and took to Advance Auto to get tested. It was bad, so in went a Optima Red Top. No real change, but could tell starter was trying harder but still had issues.
3) Pulled bulkhead and found alt belt was loose. No sense in using a old belt. So back to Advance I went. Still no real change.
4) I had an old Accel Ultra Tork starter I had from my Ranchero. That car had a 13:1 351 and it had never given me any problems, but it was for a C-6. I pulled 1717s starter and commenced to switch the snouts. The bendix's were the same so the Accel's bendix was used.
It started the car no problem and took off for a ride to get her warmed up. Stopped at the gas station and pumped some fuel. Got in and she fired right up. Came home and shut her off in the driveway. Radiator fans were running and waited a couple of seconds and tried to start her. No problem she cranked right up!
Optima battery $132
New belt $9
Accel Starter $0 (1 hour labor)
No cranking problems PRICELESS!
Jeff
Original Post
Hard starting sidelined me last fall. Particularly hot starts.
A thousand trouble free miles this season since hitting the road at the beginning of July. Starts like fuel injection. Anytime.

I'd like to thank George's "Duraspark 101" for where to put the white wire specifically and for the general explanation of the system. Tom at A-1 Starter and Battery (No. Quincy, MA) for the right stocker ford permanent mag/gear reduction starter ($109.) along with the clever wiring change hint. And my friend Bruce's timing light too.

Starting on your own terms IS priceless.
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