It's a lot more complicated than that. First, the outboard bearing recess must be deepened by 5/16" to make space for a proper seal. An outboard axle spacer is made to replace the stock spacer; this allows the outboard seal to run on it as well as providing spacing for the wheel lug heads, which protrude there. Then the inboard bearing recess can be bored to provide a small step to retain the inboard bearing race. This does not leave quite enough space for a proper inboard seal, so a 'can' is made for the seal, and it is shrunk into the bored end of the upright and the slightly curved buttresses that support the upright. The companion flange attached to the halfshaft is turned to a smooth surface to provide a surface for the inboard seal, and I built a unique method of positively locking the stock axle nut at its new torque of 10 ft-lbs. You'll need a good machinest, a lathe, a milling machine and lots of bearing catalogues etc. I couldn't find a thin enough inboard seal in the proper size, so I diassembled a new seal, narrowed it on a lathe and reaseembled it to make the size I needed. All this is more clearly shown in the photos in the two POCA newsletter articles, and today, more than 5 yrs later, no problems have shown up. The rollers were in there when I tested a radiator shroud at speeds of 145 for a 10 minute period.... the shroud needed more work but the tapered bearings werec fine. They are also waterproof; I drive the car regardless of weather.
