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To tajon... No my car isn't quite on the road yet. I'm having issues blowing fuse 11 and overheating. When fuse 11 goes I lose the passenger side fan and even on a cool day with one fan running it over heated. Last time it over heated the problem was traced, expensively, to a collapsing lower rubber coolant hose that we didn't notice. I need to double check all hoses and make sure that's not happening elsewhere.

I bought a replacement fuse box from Pantera-Electronix with no expectation that it would fix my problem. Very nice product and my main reason for getting it was to quickly identify which fuse I've blown and it does that very well. The only enhancement I'd suggest would be a label panel that could swing out so I'd know at a glance what's on each fuse.

So far Gil and I have replace a headlight micro switch, headlight relay, fuse box, and one wire.

When I'm driving and I turn on the headlights fuse 11 goes. We've moved the headlight motor down to the bottom of the fuse panel to one of the unused fuses meant for the door motors which we didn't relocate.

The next suggestion I've gotten is to pull the dash and look for any wires shorting out.

A little context... This is at the end of an overly long 3-4 year rebuild on the motor, repainted engine bay, new firewall, replacement msd, air conditioning moved to the front, new shocks, etc. So yeah, a bit has changed. I'm expecting my 600hp engine dyno to come in somewhere in the 450-500hp range on a chassis dyno.

Suggestions welcome...

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I may have figured out the issue. I have a bump stop for the headlight assembly to prevent too much vibration from shaking the headlights. It apparently didn't get reset back to the original position when the radiator was re-installed. The micro switch was not making contact when the headlight came up and the headlight motor would blow the fuze when it hit the bump stop. Re-adjusted the contact point for the micro switch and things seem to be working now.

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