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All of the products sold by Jon Haas are excellent quality and he will stand behind what he sells.

but in your case I think you are perhaps selecting a solution that may not correct the problem you are experiencing.

The stock wiring for the headlight motors requires two functioning limit switches and if you buy Jon Haas’ conversion kit you will still have to use those same switches. The stock system also uses a relay which you would lose with Jon’s system  

I would do some basic troubleshooting on the wiring, the relay, and most definitely the two limit switches.

Buying a new controller but finding the problem is your limit switches might not be a path you want to find yourself on?


The headlight motor has the same plastic gear that the window lift motors have and they often harden and crack over time. I'm with Larry that some basic troubleshooting is warranted to diagnose the problem. If you use the hand crank to get the lights up do they go down when you turn on the ignition?

Yes to Joules & Larry.

My headlights recently stopped working, and it was the broken plastic gear in the headlight mechanism.

The hand crank wouldn't work as the gear mechanism was jammed.

We had to remove the plate that the motor and gear mechanism is mounted to on the driver side of the inner fender so we could get the buckets free for some prep work.

I am getting ready to install Jon's "Gen 1" Headlight Controller when my car gets back from paint. 

FYI:  The new features of the "Gen 2" Controller, over "Gen 1" are:

"The HMC Gen2, the present generation, utilizes automotive relays designed for headlight applications and are controlled by logic circuits designed to operate relays very fast to reduce contact arcing.

The additions to the Gen2 over the Gen1:  Lift motor electronics includes a dynamic brake to improve the repeatability in positioning the headlights and an electronic circuit breaker for the lift motor.

All of the Pantera switches that control the HMC have the factory level current removed and converted to low level current, 0.02 Amps.  This low level current is the design standard to keep switch contacts from oxidizing.

The headlight, parking, side marker, gauge lighting current is controlled by HMC and is delivered to the fuse panel.

The headlight lift motor current is also removed from ALL switches including the front limit switches. (amateur relays systems do NOT remove the motors 10 Amps from the limit switches!)

In addition the order of function is changed from the factory, the HMC activates the headlight lift motor then after it stops then the headlights are activated. This reduces the current on the front harness from 20 amps to 10 amps. Generally the lift motor will operate a bit faster as a result.


I just bought the components to build the harness from him.  Complete kit, fast service.

Here's a pictures of my issue.  This might be the same as your issue, but as Joules and Larry said - it might also be the limit switches.


Good Luck




IMG_1547 [Large)






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