Running hot and A/C not a good combo

I take it these new items still have you with a cooling issue. What is the problem? Just a high temp gauge reading? Big deal - I run 210-214 in 95 degree city stop and go, but it does not boil or gurgle over. Drops to 185 when I get up to speed. And this is a mechanical VDO unit that gives accurate readings - the stock gauge is likely not telling you the true temp. If you are not boiling over, you probably have no problem. Forgive me asking the following, but have you - made sure the fans are spinning the right direction? Raised the rear end and bled air out of the system? And then done it again, and again, after driving some miles? Are you using the correct thermostat? Parts houses are famous for selling a 351 Windsor unit - you MUST have the Cleveland one for proper circulation. Is the thermostat working, or of unknown age and condition? A 160 stat will do nothing to improve temps - just opens sooner. Are both fans working all the time, or are they on temp controlled sensors? If so, have you seen them both cycle to 'on'? When all these issues are known to be correct, I imagine your cooling will be fine. If not, write again and we'll tackle it some more.

Good luck,

Larry

I'll chime in on the A/c I purchased a Sanden rotory 134 compressor from MAP, It came with the correct fittings and bolted in easily with supplied hardware. Then I bought the biggest condenser that would fit a twin fan Mitsubisi shroud...cross flow hi eff from ACkits.com We adapted the ends to fit the condenser in the NAPA parking lot. My face gets cold when I drive. My only wish is to have more airflow on my left arm. I am working on that too...I have the defrost hose disconnected from the upper duct and pointing down. Remember r12 is a thing of the past.

Thanks for the reinforcement and help. Th acr doesnt overheat or bubble over. Yes the fans spin correctly, I agree a mech guage would be best, I bled the system, but the fans are run off sensors and come on as needed, I think also lowering this temp may help, I just feel 180 =/- would be best without a/c. the car runs up on the end of 200 =/-. Any real hard driving is not going to be pretty. Also lowering the engine temp, would lower the the heat generating source ? Has anyone ever addressed the issue of the water pump pumping such a long distance to the rad and back. Does the alum pump impellor take this into account. Thanks for the points they are well takin.

Thanks, Ok so the compressor? do you have a part # and the condensor ? It fits in the location in the rear dimensionally but has two fans ? or one ? I'm in the HVAC business so I can fabricate a shroud and such but your hepl with the basics is a great help. Thanks.

When I bought my car the AC didn't work. It hadn't worked for years. I replaced the stock York compressor with a rotary R12 compressor and replaced the dryer. I had the system evac'ed and recharged. Everything else is stock. The system works GREAT. 32 degrees at the vent. Yes, R12 is a thing of the past but it is readily available at most AC shops. Yes, it is expensive. Cost me $250 to recharge the system but the R12 is much more efficiant then the R134. I'm told if you switch to R134 then you have to change everything. I don't know if that is true or not but I can tell you mine works great.

I also have the Fluidyne Aluminum Radiator, Weiand Aluminum Water Pump and a 160 degree T'stat. My car runs about 180 degrees most of the time. I only have 1 sucker fan and 1 pusher fan. The reason for this is I had 2 14 inch sucker fans from a different car that I removed a while ago. I tried to mount them both but it was slightly to wide so I only used 1. Even with the one the car runs cool...

same here bought the car no a/c. I have to replace the compressor so I was wondering which was the best or a part # but as of now I have R-12 in my shop but i wanted to use a 134 unit. If I have to work on this system I prefer to just change everything so there is no problems in the future.

yes I have the Fluidyne rad with the 2 suckers that came on it monuted. I think I have to look into the temp they come on at and 160 tstat and get the alum water pump installed.

I have a lot of mech work to do to get the car up to todays standards.

quote:

I have to replace the compressor so I was wondering which was the best or a part # but as of now I have R-12 in my shop but i wanted to use a 134 unit.

If you have the R12, and since it is more efficient than 134, I would stay with an R12 system. The Sanden R12 unit that is used in the conversion is an SD508 style, model 8390. You can get the York to Sanden conversion brackets on eBay or at any parts store. These are universal and not just sold by our vendors.My rotary, otherwise stock system, blows 40 degrees on a 95 degree day here in Fresno, where we just finished a 31 day steak of over 100 every day.

I am using four pounds of freon.

Water pumps are a personnal choice, but they should have a plate added to the impellor if not there already for increased water flow. Quella sells a Weiand unit with this modification.

And again, make sure you have the Cleveland thermostat!! If not, you keep a major percentage of the flow inside the block (designed for quicker warmups and thus lower emmissions) instead of sending it to the radiator.

Larry

Hi guys, I'll add my 2 cents to this topic.

R134a is not compatible with the mineral oil or the viton / buna-N elastomers that were used in your R12 a/c system. And the heat absorbtion properties of R134a are different from those of R12. So a properly done conversion will flush all the mineral oil from the entire system, replace the receiver-dryer, expansion valve, compressor, any rubber hoses and all the o-rings and refill with the correct poly alkaline glycol lubricant. Replacement R134a specific service fittings are screwed on at the service ports & a big R134a decal is attached near the service ports as well.

The reality is, if you flush the system, replace the compressor & expansion valve you've done more than the majority of conversions on the road. I would also highly recommend replacing the receiver-dryer.

By the way, R12 is a federally controlled substance, just like narcotics. Possession of R12 without a license to do so is a criminal offense subject to the same type of penalties. Or so I've been told.

Before you spend money on a water pump, at least take a look at the Edelbrock pump, it has a cast curved blade impeller that is far more efficient at pumping than the stamped metal paddle wheels installed in most water pumps. The Pantera can use all the extra coolant flow you can give it.

Blocking off the recirc passage with a freeze plug is normally a trick done when eliminating the t-stat all together. If you install the Windsor t-stat, there shall be no way for coolant to recirc at all when the engine is cold, except through the heater core. If the heater is off, the water pump will be pumping against a dead head until the thermostat opens.

your friend on the PIBB, George

George I was looking for the part #'s of converting to a 134 compressor,expansion valve, condensor - fan, reciever drier and hoses. As I thought about it, it would be nice to put together a list of a conversion kit for everyone. You are correct the two oils are not compatible and without the correct filter core as we use on large commercial units its impossible to remove all the old oil.
I choose to replace the entire system as in NY in the summer its been hot and it deters me from driving this car at the time when I wish to use it most.

And I'm an a/c contractor so this is a challenge that is a little more then the every day grind. And yes we have the federal certs.

The water pump I have the aluminum unit sitting on the bench ready for install, just wanted a little input prior to tearing it apart. Your correct again, dead heading the pump is not the path I want to take. I'm still not sure I understand the difference bewteen the 351c and 351 w tstat ?

Thanks,

Ron

quote:

I'm still not sure I understand the difference bewteen the 351c and 351 w tstat ?

Ron,

Go the following link, On Chuck Melton's site, to view the two thermostats.

http://www.geocities.com/provamo72/Cooling_6.html

Larry

Hey Thanks,

Well I took her for a run tonight, NY finally cooled off, I know the tstat is correct because it ran at 180 and I pushing the car. I will be sure to check the one installed in the engine now as compared to the replacement. I'm almost 100% sure the one installed is right becuase it finctions prperly althought for my taste a little hot in the extreme 90 - 100 outside. So I will take the advise and do a couple more upgrades. Thanks Guys !