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My 1972 Pantera with factory air Never worked. I`m putting a new 351c motor in. I`m thinking of Eliminating the air. More room, Simplicity. Just open the pass. window 3" and the wind hits the back window and blow drys you. Any one Agree? Where to get Single Crank Pully and set up for none Air?
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I am fan of keeping every thing functional, but to each his own. In order to make the AC work properly, you would have to replace just about every major component, so the cost is a factor. Balance that against the resale value when you decide to turn the car, and perhaps the grief you get from the forum members who think you should have kept it Big Grin
my A/C is working and glad with it , even the days are rare when we need it in our Belgian weather...ok, windows rolled down can be pleasend but then exhaust "music" makes talking more yes, i favorite to have both options and keep the A/C in shape !
don't even know, are the A/C's in our GT5S the same as in the '70 models ?
Just about every A/C system I have had tends to loose its refrigerant after awhile. Some systems need to recharged every year. Some last for years.

My SHO uses o rings which leak like a WWII U boat, while my 07 Fusion is still blowing cold without a recharge yet.

The Pantera has all Ford components and is not particularly susceptible to leaking freon, but it has a lot of joints to the system and the hoses running to the back are long and as a result the system takes more volume of freon to fill it.

It was designed to use R12 which for all intents and purposes isn't available any more. You can find people selling cans of it on ebay but it's simpler to switch it over to R34.

If you are going to do that, the factory built a larger core evaporator for that system.

There is a rotary compressor available. You can get them rebuilt for about $100 at a local parts store. They are a good idea since they run alot quieter and smoother then the big Ford York does.

You should change your receiver/drier too, but those are pretty much a universal unit. Probably originally Mustang units to start out.

The rule of thumb to go from r12 to r34 is to step up the sizes of the hoses one size to accommodate more volume in the r34 system, but the Pantera hoses are already oversized if you look at them. Probably to compensate for the lengths.

Presuming that all your electricals already work and if the heater/defroster does then they already do, you basically need to charge the system with freon.

It isn't complicated at all.

The main difference between the two refrigerants is that the r34 doesn't get as cold as the r12. The coldest you can get the r34 to blow is about 40f usually. I've gotten it down to about 37 degrees. That's cold enough to pucker your nippies for sure. C O L D. That's probably where the expression, "it's getting a little nippie!" comes from if you ask me? roll on floor

The r12 on the other hand you can get to blow at freezing. You really don't need it.

40f is plenty cold. I don't know how you guys take it in the summer with the engine right up your back without it?

NY typically goes upper 90s with very high humidity in the summer. Seems like the humidity matches the temperature most of the time. No such thing as dry heat here unless you are talking about sticking your head in a pizza oven... but that can be arranged? Wink

The a/c here blowing on you dries you out so that you can take your swimming goggles off. You wouldn't want to ruin your nice new leather seats soaking them in NY sweat would you?
Let's go the other way... It's 105-110 in Phoenix already and I'd like my a/c to cool me down! It tends to shutoff as well as not sufficiently cool when it does work. Suggestions? Works pretty good coming out of a garage until it's had time to soak up the heat/sun for a while.

Hey Rick,

With that low Phoenix humidity, you could strap a swamp cooler on the roof. roll on floor

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