My car turns over great when its cold but when I drive it and the car is warm the starter turns real slow or won't start till it cools. any advice, thank you. Regards; Dennis
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Check & clean all your engine ground wires/cables, especially the battery ground where it attaches to the chassis between the battery and the pedal box. It made a big difference for me.
Earlier thread:
http://64.70.166.243/ubb/Forum10/HTML/001449.html
http://64.70.166.243/ubb/Forum10/HTML/001449.html
I have had this problem with my Mustang and found the ground cable connection inside the cable end itself was bad.
Ground cable is indeed a good thing to inspect and upgrade (and I did that), BUT in my case, I still have my starting problems. I belive my starter to be experiencing heat-soaking. The sucker is just getting cooked next to my Mind Train headers. Starts just fine on a cold start. Run a while, and as soon as the car is shut off, it will then turn over so slowly it won't start. Have to let it cool off.
My next plan is to try a heat-blaknet from Summit, see if that helps at all. If it doesn't, I'll have no choice but to buy an expensive heat-resistant starter.
My next plan is to try a heat-blaknet from Summit, see if that helps at all. If it doesn't, I'll have no choice but to buy an expensive heat-resistant starter.
My starter is less than a year old. The old was some huge motorcraft starter that was just plain old, got to where it was hard to start even when cold. When I replaced it last fall, there was a huge difference. Started right up all the time, until these last couple of months. The alternator is new also, about 1 month old. I just think it's getting heat soaked.
Oh, and compressions is 10.5:1
Oh, and compressions is 10.5:1
To start a smoking-hot 10-1/2:1 engine on todays gas, you will need a good battery, clean ground cable connections especially the rear cable connected between the ZF and the frame near the AC condenser. If your car doesn't have one, add it. Finally, I recommend a gear drive starter for such engines, in any of a number of brands.All the Pantera vendors sell such. I added one to my 10-1/2:1 engine in 1989 and have had no further trouble spinning the engine hot or cold. Be aware that the Pantera 351-C may need an automatic transmission type gear drive starter due to the position of our std shift flywheel, which may also force a longer metric bolt and stud to mount it in the ZF bellhousing. If you choose to save a buck buying a starter froma hot-rod shop, be very sure you can return it for the other model if it won't fit. Needless to say, all this research has been done by your vendors.....
Just installed a new starter solenoid ($13, Wells Mfg. Corp., Part No. F490 [for a '73 Mustang, 'cause the Parts Guy is gonna need to know so he can look it up in his computer]) after reading what happened to Cozman in this Forum under "Starter Problems?"
There was some green corrosion on the copper cable connections at the Solenoid. And a lot of 'dust' came off the cables with a wire brush. These cables come directly from the battery and go directly to the starter. Any corrosion will act as an insulator and not allow full passage of current. To get maximum cranking power from the starter requires maximum amperage passing freely from the battery across the solenoid to the starter motor. So, while you're checking the ground cables, you may want to brush off the Positive (+) cables at the solenoid, and for $13, put a new solenoid on, so as not to have to push start your cat at a really inconvenient time. Sometimes ya gotta check everything.
Oh yeah, mine was hesitant to start too when hot, like I had to hold the key on start for a few extra seconds before it was persuaded to start cranking over. Hope this fixes mine, 'cause it's on jack stands for another two (2) weeks for another project. If not, I'll be cleaning ground cable connections too.
There was some green corrosion on the copper cable connections at the Solenoid. And a lot of 'dust' came off the cables with a wire brush. These cables come directly from the battery and go directly to the starter. Any corrosion will act as an insulator and not allow full passage of current. To get maximum cranking power from the starter requires maximum amperage passing freely from the battery across the solenoid to the starter motor. So, while you're checking the ground cables, you may want to brush off the Positive (+) cables at the solenoid, and for $13, put a new solenoid on, so as not to have to push start your cat at a really inconvenient time. Sometimes ya gotta check everything.
Oh yeah, mine was hesitant to start too when hot, like I had to hold the key on start for a few extra seconds before it was persuaded to start cranking over. Hope this fixes mine, 'cause it's on jack stands for another two (2) weeks for another project. If not, I'll be cleaning ground cable connections too.