Some time ago I replaced the rubber bushings with polyurethane bushings. They didn't need to be replaced but I was looking for something to fix. I know, don't fix it if it ain't broke. The problem is that the squeak like an old jalopy once they warm up. Without removing them I've tried penetrating oil but that hasn't helped a great deal. Have you had a similar problem? How did you fix it?
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Most people install grease zerks into the a-arms along with the poly bushings, they do require a light greasing on an annual basis to prevent squeaking. That said some vendors products seem to have a preponderance to squeak more than others.
None of that information appeared in the fine print when I bought those damn things. Grease yearly? that's a lot of work unbolting them all. Thanks
Years ago I installed poly bushings on my BMW. Tried everything to fix the creaking but ended up removing them and going back to rubber. Unless you have a race car and don’t care about the noise, the marginal performance gain from poly bushings is not worth it IMO. I feel your pain.
Pantera Performance sells bushings made from graphite impregnated polyurethane. Apparently, they do not squeak but they are harder than regular polyurethane bushings.
next winter those bushings are getting removed if I can get rubber.
Thank you for all of your replies, I thought I had a unique problem.
All,
Over the last thirty years I can recall these fixes for squeaking polyurethane bushings:
1) Zerk fittings--- periodically apply grease, the most common fix and seems to work well
2) Application of anti-seize at the time of installation---I have heard of this once or twice, but I do not know of anyone who has actually done it nor how effective it is.
3) Graphite impregnated polyurethane bushings---available for years. I don't know how effective they are, but given the lack of negative reviews, they seem to be a good option
4) Special polyurethane bushing lube---several years ago a fellow Pantera owner installed the poly bushings and was also sold a packet or two (condiment-sized) of allegedly special purpose polyurethane bushing lube. It seems to work as I have heard no comments from the owner nor squeaks from the Pantera.
I am curious if anyone has any experience with the two uncommon options of using anti-seize or the secret polyurethane lube?
Warmest regards, Chuck Engles
@davidnunn posted:Pantera Performance sells bushings made from graphite impregnated polyurethane. Apparently, they do not squeak but they are harder than regular polyurethane bushings.
Dennis' bushings also have a hexagonal sleeve core if my memory serves, which I think also helps prevent them rotating on the inner sleeve. They are on my GT5 and I've driven it for 14 years and cannot recall ever greasing them.
I applied anti-seize at one point, it was good for about two drives.
That looks like a good solution. Seems like just adding a zerk won't help if there isn't a good way for the grease to get to where it needs to. Do you use special grease that won't degrade the poly? The poly bushings I installed years ago came with a little blister of grease that I used according to the instructions. They were quiet for about a year but that was it.
Is it possible to drill, tap and install grease fittings without any disassembly ?
The hexagonal inner sleeve & poly will work for a-arm bushings but not for the D-shaped bushings used as pivots in the middle of both anti-sway bars. And you should NOT use polyurethane bushings on the outer ends of anti-sway bars. The bar ends go though a complex multiplane motion while driving, and even soft polyurethane is far too stiff to do this. It can and has cracked steel a-arms. For the 4 bar ends, use those sphere-ball ends sold by the vendors. Or rubber- which is soft enough to flex but removes some of any size anti-sway bar's effectiveness.
I suppose one with a hoist and a lot of spare time could install zerk fittings in the a-arms and anti-sway bar centers without removing the parts. Zerks are threaded 1/4-28 SAE and you only need a few threads, as there's really no force on them. But by removing the a-arms and sway bars to do the drilling, you can also cut a spiral like the twist in a gun barrel on the inside bore of the bushings. This will tend to spread grease along the length of each bushing. Then when one does a Spring Tune-up to their car, a stroke on a grease gun for each zerk only takes seconds. Don't forget to also add zerks to the 6 ball joints and the two tie-rod ends. Ford saved several pennies by leaving all these out.
Would it not be easier to return to rubber bushings? Does anybody sell them?
thank you
I'm sure all the vendors have them.
Does anybody know if Pantera bushings are shared with other makes and models? I cant imagine that they are unique to DeTomaso. In mass production they may cost pennies compared to DeTomase vendor sourced versions.
Yes, the same bushings are used by a few different manufacturers but none are likely to be cheaper than through DeTomaso vendors.
@rlee63a4 posted:FWIW, No squeaks since rebuild in 2004 when I added zerks and used bushings with grooves for grease to flow. A shot of grease every couple of years keeps them quiet.
Where did you purchase the bushings and for what model car?TIA
Bought the bushings for my '72 Pantera from Marino of Pantera East who sold OEM parts and many aftermarket parts specifically developed, tailored or modified for the Pantera--those bushings, Boyd Coddington wheels and long-throw clutch slave cylinder to name a few. Marino got out of the Pantera parts business in 2010, I believe.
That's what I'm going to do. Thanks!
I believe Marino still has inventory available.
Mike Mileski
Tucson, AZ
my damn urethane bushings squeak as well, sounds like an old rust bucket when they get hot, but that's a lot of work to fix. Why I ever got rid of the rubber bushings is a good guess. They didn't need replacement, after all I now only have 27K miles on the car since new. Any ideas how to improve the situation without taking it all apart? Fat chance right?
