stroker cleaveland

From what I understand on a cleveland block is that ou can not exceed a 3.77 stroke without having the block flex. So in my opinion, you are only gaining small horsepower increase. In addition the stroker kit for a cleveland is very, very expensive compared to a windsor or a 302 or a chevy for that matter. I chose not to go with a stroker motor and made the same horsepower increase in the heads.

Disadvantages of a stroker 351-C? Unless you also lengthen the rods, the cylinder walls will get a little more side-load, and the walls are thin already. The rev-limit is a little lower since piston speed is really what limits the redline and long stroke engines have higher piston speed at a given rpm. But practically speaking, neither will affect you unless you wring the motors tail in some race. Then all bets are off. Oil comsumption is a function of ring seal, which is influenced by wall thickness & piston speed, but your stroker-kit-maker should have a handle on that problem.

I had the same question, and have asked a lot of people what their opinion was. The majority thought that the best overall approach is to offset grind the rod journals of the stock crank for a 3.7 (or about that) stroke and Chevy rods. With pistons having the the correct compression height, you can use 6 inch rods, and end up with about the same rod to stroke ratio as a stock Cleveland.

I don't know that it costs to have a crank offset ground, but there is more to it than just grinding the journals, the crank should also be cross drilled, etc., and someone might quote a cheap price, and not do everything that's needed when you go up in power.

6 inch Eagle forged H beam rods are popular, I think you can buy them for $300. The pistons may be $600 to $700 for really good lightweight forged pistons.

People with this combination seem satisfied, but if you run a big cam, and go to high RPM, anything can and will break.