Timing Pointers

ok if I understood.

- Rule is simple get a screw in device to plug in cylinder "1"..measure intital piston level/as it hits the plug..mark it on the hopefully NEW damper..then turn it either forward or backward..(backward has the issue that the main big bold  get loose, backward you need to have the piston beyond the top level- in forward direction).
- mark both points. THE MIDDLE is what you want "0"..mark it..adjust the "stock marker".. by just benting up or down, def mark it on the balancer.

Then mark the new "0" mark on the flyweel as there is as you said a mark at the gear box houesing..my box has it..new timing devices  can do Degreeing up or down  by just like that ref point.

Matthias..just doing it right now.

I have both indicators, Up front - Timing marks on my front balancer, with a pointer.

In the back of the engine, I had my flywheel on a mill with a rotary table, and cut degree marks.

Then, with the engine lined up to TDC from the front mark with the timing pointer, we drilled / tapped a small hole to extend a machine screw to get the rear reference on the bellhousing window accurate.

This way I can check the timing for the back easily.

I also installed a 12 V socket (cigarette lighter plug) of the left-hand side of the engine bay, so that I can give power to a timing light.

I find marks on the bell housing are useful for quick checks, but if you’re going to adjust the timing, you are really going to do it from the front of the engine because you have to turn the distributor and disconnect vacuum hoses.

Rocky

Thanks very much Rocky and Matthias.Most helpful. 

I guess if I purchase an adjustable the two bolt type pointer that has some  adjustability  I can set the piston position at TDC and lock the pointer  onto the zero position on the harmonic balance markings. That will give me the front location accurately .

Then I should be able to swing the motor each way and using the harmonic balancer  marks and  pop the relative positions from the flywheel onto the bell housing for the other positions for those quick rear checks. 

The machined graduations on the flywheel may have to wait a little while ....!

Great idea on the 12v rear socket. I will add it to the slowly diminishing list !

woow the 12V socket..TX Rocky..an other top idea.

middel engine is a brutal wappon but working on it is mostly painfull..

Matthias

Don't over complicate this. Cut the left side vertical [with pointer] off & simply bolt it on. You don't need the rest of the bracket to go all the way across and down, that does nothing.

No need to remove anything except the two bolts. Use a quarter inch longer bolt if necessary with washer.

5 minute job & you will achieve your objective.

Good suggestion -Thanks Sharkey. 

I do it from the front. The cover needs to come off to get to the distributor anyway so it isn't extra effort.