Two of a Kind

That is pretty cool timing! It is always nice to see cats together in a pack, even if it's a small one.

Devin, when you do get around to doing the shocks & springs you will really be happy with the ability to adjust the ride height properly. I didn't see much of a ride quality change because my originals were still working really well but I love the stance of my car now. I went with the Carreras but would probably pay a bit more for the Konis if I was doing it again.

Mark

quote:

While I was working on my car today the shop next door came over to let me know that they had a Pantera they were putting some new Koni’s on. When they were finished installing the shocks I pulled my car of the lift and took it next door for a quick photo opportunity.

Cool! Hope you got to meet the owner, or at least get his contact info, so you can plan some drives, tech sessions, and car show visits together. It's great fun doing things in a pack!

Mark,

I really like the stance of your car. I really did not notice how high mine sat until it was sitting next to # 5592. Thanks for posting the photo of your car.

Devin

Garth,

I was lucky enough to get the owner's cell number but missed him when he picked up his car.

I just heard yesterday that there are possibly two more Panteras in my town, but it sounds like they may not be drivable.

I am going to see if I can chase them down to see what kind of condition they truly are in. I think it would be fun to run around with a few more Panteras.

quote:

Originally posted by Garvino:
Garth,

I was lucky enough to get the owner's cell number but missed him when he picked up his car.

I just heard yesterday that there are possibly two more Panteras in my town, but it sounds like they may not be drivable.

I am going to see if I can chase them down to see what kind of condition they truly are in. I think it would be fun to run around with a few more Panteras.

Where in Wyoming are you, John Hansen is in Jackson Hole. He's a PCNC member, look him up. He has a Yellow 74 with a wing.

Garvino, Maybe you just need to remove the spacers.. like this... http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/...690080004#8690080004

quote:

Originally posted by Cuvee:
Where in Wyoming are you, John Hansen is in Jackson Hole...

Cuvee,

Jackson Hole is about 5 hours away from me. Not only are we cursed/blessed by a low population but a pretty large state.

Very rarely do I make it that way, but if I do I will see if maybe I can drop in to see his car. I will also get him my information so if he ever heads this way.

Thanks for the heads up.

quote:

Originally posted by lastpushbutton:
Garvino, Maybe you just need to remove the spacers.. like this...

LastPushButton,

I have pondered removing my spacers but it seems like a lot of work for a car that may not sit exactly how I want it. I like the idea of the adjustable coil-overs so I can get the exact ride height I'm looking for. I have a set of 17” HRE’s for the car but it currently looks way to high in the back when they are on. I am going to have to do something if I plan on ever running these rims.

Likewise, at the price for a set of new Koni shocks maybe I should try removing the spacers to see how it sits. Does anyone have any idea how long removing the spacers takes? I have a car lift and plenty of tools to make things easier.

I've heard removing them might be a real bear. They corrode and almost weld themselves into place.

I had original shocks and removed the spacers prior to purchasing adjustable shocks. I think you're right to suspect that removing them will not get you the look you're after.
Corrosion was not a problem in removing my spacers. They came right out once things were disassembled, and my shocks were not particularly clean after 90,000 miles. You're going to have to compress the springs to remove / replace the locking collars. I had access to a press and a whole lot of press tools, so it went quick and safe for me, but I can see where it could get a little scary trying to compress and release those springs with an Auto Zone spring compressor. I wouldn't want to do it that way.
You won't need adjustable rear upper A arms if you just remove the spacers, but if you go for adjustable shocks and slam it down, be prepared to replace those A arms at the same time. You need them to get the rear tires squared up and there is just no way around it.
Later, Mooso.

quote:

I've heard removing them might be a real bear. They corrode and almost weld themselves into place.

Thats exactly what happened to mine. I ended up using my cutoff wheel and chopping them into quarters and still had to beat them off with a hammer and chisel.

A shock-spacer remover tool is simple to make. Its two pieces of 1/4" steel about 4" square with a 2" hole in the middle of each, diagonally connected by two long sections of 1/2" all-thread. Putting the shock inside and tightening two nuts on the all-thread compresses the spring enough to pull the split-locks out. Then you unscrew the nuts and take out the parts. I use a cheap ratcheting box-end wrench to speed up the tightening/untightening. Not difficult but tedious. Works on both OEM and aftermarket shocks.
Second note: changing ride height for any reason requires re-aligning the tires- at least on the front. Not doing so often causes asymmetric tire wear- and tires are expensive commodities.
If you're doing this for appearance, fine. If you're (also) doing it to improve the handling, be aware that besides ride height, you can correct the following in the front end:
*bump-steer
*Ackermann toe
*wheel alignment (caster, camber and toe-in)
*scrub radius
You can also prolong the life of the ball joints and tie rod ends by adding zerk fittings so the assemblies can be greased. All this can be done at home with common hand tools, at low cost.

quote:

Originally posted by Garvino:
I really like the stance of your car. I really did not notice how high mine sat until it was sitting next to # 5592.

Devin,

As noted by Mooso, I should have mentioned that when I installed new shock I also replaced my stock upper A-arm with an adjustable unit to enable a proper alignment. While I had everything apart I also decided to powder-coat everything and replace all the bushings and wear points. Only the bushings were a huge pain (removing the old ones). My ordeal is chronicled about half way down this page:

http://www.markscars.ca/Pantera_Projects.html

and the bushing removal process:

http://www.markscars.ca/Pantera_Bushings.html

Mark

I was just looking at some of the major vendor’s websites regarding the rear adjustable upper a-arms.

All I see offered are “extended” upper rear a-arms but nothing that states or looks adjustable. Can someone point me to a direct link for the proper one?

Once again, thanks for everyone’s help and guidance.

The 'extension' is usually a heim joint that threads into the completely new tubular upper a-arm in place of a stock balljoint. Adjustment is by unbolting and threading the heim in or out (with lock-nut) to change the length. At least thats how Larry Stock's new product works. A couple of extras I recommend is to use a tapered adapter-stud in the rear upright in place of the usual bolt, so you don't need to drill the taper out. Restoring a drilled upright is difficult and expensive. A second addition is a pair of heim-seals above & below the open ball, for at least some weather protection. Speedway Motors in NE sell both the adapter stud & heim seals for a total of less than $20 a side.