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This was a while back but Brian Graham of Graham Tools/Pantera sold the newer version of the switch. My friend bought one and said it was a lot better quality and worked great. The new style replacement backup switch part # 06033aa. I don't know if the part number is Graham's or an actual manufacturer part number though.

The tool business is still on line but I don't know if he's still in the Pantera parts business but it wouldn't hurt to call. Here's a note I found on the website "A blast from the past...Graham Tool Company sold parts and provided restoration and customization services for DeTomaso Pantera owners. Our first company logo was designed by Chip Foose. It was in a shape that represented two new business ventures...teeth and tools. But what happened to the Pantera parts collection? Stay tuned...in fact.. we still have lots of Pantera parts in storage. What are you looking for? Call toll free at (888) 262-2550 or email Brian@GrahamTool.com"

Here'a the new switch installed in my friend's car -

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one of my pet peeves with new cars...what is the purpose of the "backup light". cursing through a parking lot you can find backup lamps on with no one even in the car, no longer being the indication the car is starting to move backwards.


googling for backup switches, finding links that provide the thread size haven't been found by me.
something like this for a VW looks promising
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Originally posted by Joe 1974 L #6656:
i took the old switch out that broke off when I pulled the tranney and went to Autozone and matched the tread size and pitch. then tweeked the adjustment till it worked but it was 7 years ago



Joe,

Can you take a picture of your switch? Maybe look to see if it has any numbers on. It?

Thanks.
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THEN found out it was a Normally Closed switch!!

Actually, it is a normally open switch.

At least it was when it left the factory.

What happens after that, especially with Panteras, is anyone's guess.

I continually fail to understand the logic to explain why an owner would modify a permanent part of one's car, such as a drilled-out selector housing cover, when a correct vendor-supplied part is readily available.

We are caretakers of our cars. They will live long after we are dust.

I'd hate to be the future owner who needed to replace this Pantera's back-up switch, then ordered a factory correct switch only to find what he somehow needs to replace is something (made by who?, on what cars?, what years?) entirely different, and "drastically modified". Should that hurdle be conquered, then he will find the altered wiring and need to figure THAT out.

Roland in Germany no doubt stocks this switch. Most likely OEM quality.

Lot of good that will do a future owner of a Pantera with a Triumph switch.

Flame suit on.

Larry

SOBill diagram showing the switch closed WHEN the selector is in reverse and has depressed the switch plunger.

When a momentary switch (one that automatically returns to its previous position when released) is labeled NO (normally open) that means when it is taken from it's packaging, sitting bare in your hand, the LINE and LOAD terminals of that switch are not internally connected and are not closing a circuit.

A NO momentary switch will only conduct current when it is depressed.

A NC (normally closed) momentary switch will STOP conducting current when it is depressed.

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I have a series of 3 switches that start the car, the back-up lights are powered by the starter activator switch. They are 1) powers up all ignition, power to running process. 2) power to starter ( back-up lights ). 3) start button to crank engine. I have a indicator light if I start to drive without turning the # 2 switch off. Their is a couple of real reasons this is practical, if your in a full throttle jam you can just hit the switch, very quick kill switch, without locking up your steering wheel. The other benefit is since the starter is independent you can bump or crank the engine without starting the engine.
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I continually fail to understand the logic to explain why an owner would modify a permanent part of one's car, such as a drilled-out selector housing cover, when a correct vendor-supplied part is readily available.

Larry, I won't flame you, I'll hose you down to save you. I'm amazed at the complex solutions to simple issues that we do to our Panteras. It being a semi-free world, and if people have too much time and money on their hands, they can of course do what they want. But you're right, I'd hate to buy that car with many "clever" solutions. I prefer "unmolested".
And as I said before, we should support our vendors. I've seen many posts about which struts to buy for rear lid, length/strength/hole ID. Well, our vendors know, they've spent the time and money to find out, thank them by buying their product.

Go ahead, flame...
No quarter, I too prefer to keep my car as near to factory as economically possible.

You mention struts, No vendor makes struts like they came from the factory.
The ones I made are so like the originals, I used the original tubes, had a decal made and fitted new struts "Inside" the old ones, and by helicoiling the top connector bracket I used that as well.
new struts are charged at 400 newtons and the hood works very well.
Yes, but Peter, I have to take issue with your choice of replacement clocks for the dashboard of your Euro GTS.

That golden Chinese replacement clock with the swinging arm (lower left corner of your picture)looks nothing like the original design.

I daresay it might detract from the value of all of our cars if it becomes a common modification....

Rocky
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Originally posted by Rocky:
Yes, but Peter, I have to take issue with your choice of replacement clocks for the dashboard of your Euro GTS.

That golden Chinese replacement clock with the swinging arm (lower left corner of your picture)looks nothing like the original design.

I daresay it might detract from the value of all of our cars if it becomes a common modification....

Rocky


Rocky, thats my pal, I'm never alone in the garage, you wouldn't believe how long the battery lasts!!!

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