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Speedmaster and Procomp are the same.
No experience with it....but it looks pretty cool Doug. Seems like it could be a good value....assuming good performance...of course ;-)
I've also been looking at this, but can find no reviews. Wonder if they would fit without cutting the rear deck?
Enlarge the ebay picture and look close at the castings. Notice how dirty & grubby they are. That's ProComp for you, they can't even take the time to clean the parts for their own advertisement. They care even less about what they sell you.
As a generalization about all of their products, their advertising is misleading. Their casting, machining and assembly are poor in craftsmanship. The parts are made in China. They rip-off other people's designs and violate patents, with no remorse. For instance they have "3V" heads. They have shills trolling internet forums as everyday people pushing their products (not here however). All good reasons to avoid doing business with ProComp and SpeedMaster.
As a generalization about all of their products, their advertising is misleading. Their casting, machining and assembly are poor in craftsmanship. The parts are made in China. They rip-off other people's designs and violate patents, with no remorse. For instance they have "3V" heads. They have shills trolling internet forums as everyday people pushing their products (not here however). All good reasons to avoid doing business with ProComp and SpeedMaster.
No argument on any of that George but even still it would be interesting to see the head side of those castings?
The Doug Nash split magnesium "Boss" manifold for the Ford inlines that I had was nothing to write home about either as far as the quality of the castings go.
See picture below. (Everyone loves pictures in the posts)
We all "use" each other to a certain degree and if you can get what you want out of it, there is no harm done.
As far as I know, this manifold has only recently (this week) been revealed. At least I just discovered it and had no one else point it out to me. It can't have been around for too long?
The source and quality of the throttle bodies would have to be in question to me. It would be great to hold one in my hands. The castings on all of these IR manifolds tend to be thin?
The original DT Weber manifold has VERY thin carb mounting flanges and was told by Gary Hall that they break easily. Then he pointed out that his manifold had very thick mounting flanges instead. (He was always selling)
When the "Classic" Weber 48ida's were first marketed they were a disaster.
You couldn't even get the engine to respond to the idle air screws.
As far as cutting the rear deck for them, that's hard to say how much if even at all.
The center to center lines are different on the castings for these throttle bodies rather than the IDA's AND in reality for them you only need to 'notch' the deck for the #8 cylinder carb and that's only about 1/2".
On the Weber manifold the front and rear runners are offset to the front or rear of the manifold to fit the carbs on. The throttle bodies don't need that offset.
You have a good eye RR. It's entirely possible they might just clear without cutting the deck lid?
The Doug Nash split magnesium "Boss" manifold for the Ford inlines that I had was nothing to write home about either as far as the quality of the castings go.
See picture below. (Everyone loves pictures in the posts)
We all "use" each other to a certain degree and if you can get what you want out of it, there is no harm done.
As far as I know, this manifold has only recently (this week) been revealed. At least I just discovered it and had no one else point it out to me. It can't have been around for too long?
The source and quality of the throttle bodies would have to be in question to me. It would be great to hold one in my hands. The castings on all of these IR manifolds tend to be thin?
The original DT Weber manifold has VERY thin carb mounting flanges and was told by Gary Hall that they break easily. Then he pointed out that his manifold had very thick mounting flanges instead. (He was always selling)
When the "Classic" Weber 48ida's were first marketed they were a disaster.
You couldn't even get the engine to respond to the idle air screws.
As far as cutting the rear deck for them, that's hard to say how much if even at all.
The center to center lines are different on the castings for these throttle bodies rather than the IDA's AND in reality for them you only need to 'notch' the deck for the #8 cylinder carb and that's only about 1/2".
On the Weber manifold the front and rear runners are offset to the front or rear of the manifold to fit the carbs on. The throttle bodies don't need that offset.
You have a good eye RR. It's entirely possible they might just clear without cutting the deck lid?
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One of you guys needs to just pull the trigger, and give us the report!
It might be the next great thing for the Marque!!
You guys could be the "pioneers"!
Rocky
It might be the next great thing for the Marque!!
You guys could be the "pioneers"!
Rocky
I need to know what the ports on the manifold look like.
I suspect that they are filled to mount up to the small port Cleveland heads and you need to port match them to whatever heads you are using?
Being a 'pioneer' would be a step up for me. for that I would at least need a musket like Davey Crocket at the Alamo?
Right now I just have the bow an arrow that I can shoot from my chariot. That I can't fix until I can get some of these long metric wheel studs. The standard ones keep breaking?
This is all too complicated for me?
I suspect that they are filled to mount up to the small port Cleveland heads and you need to port match them to whatever heads you are using?
Being a 'pioneer' would be a step up for me. for that I would at least need a musket like Davey Crocket at the Alamo?
Right now I just have the bow an arrow that I can shoot from my chariot. That I can't fix until I can get some of these long metric wheel studs. The standard ones keep breaking?
This is all too complicated for me?
quote:Originally posted by PanteraDoug:....until I can get some of these long metric wheel studs. The standard ones keep breaking?.?
do you have any ideal why they are breaking?
thus you are sure long studs will be the solution?
Do we need to start a root cause investagation?
quote:Originally posted by JFB #05177:quote:Originally posted by PanteraDoug:....until I can get some of these long metric wheel studs. The standard ones keep breaking?.?
do you have any ideal why they are breaking?
thus you are sure long studs will be the solution?
Do we need to start a root cause investagation?
The rotating spike is iron and when it cuts the other chariot's spokes it's to much stress on the studs.
Pretty good jump in power with a 408W. The kit now comes with wiring harness and more. Individual sensors are needed to purchase additional.
http://www.mustangandfords.com...-runner-intake-test/
Also:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-3...AOSwiDFYNNas&vxp=mtr
http://www.mustangandfords.com...-runner-intake-test/
Also:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-3...AOSwiDFYNNas&vxp=mtr
I had some questions for them when they first posted this. (+/- November '16).
They never answered. That probably means that they only understand Chinese (Mandarin?) or they have no idea what I was talking about?
So the answer is that you are probably on your own with the entire project.
I will point out that the way the listing is written about the intake manifold that it is VERY VERY UNLIKELY that a 289 manifold (which is the same as a 302 manifold), even though it is a split manifold, will bolt up to a C?
It would have had to been cast for the larger ports, i.e., the 4v Cleveland or the Boss 302. Completely forget about the 2v Aussie Cleveland heads. Not possible. Those ports are lower than the 4v C head ports.
Wanna' take bets on how it was cast? I don't.
Furthermore even if it did, just for the sake of discussion, a Cleveland iron port intake port is a complete mismatch for most of the aluminum aftermarket intake ports.
What that means is that just to get the thing to bolt up you are going to need to fill the bottom of the port about 5/8".
By the same token a 289-302 port is going to require the IRON 4v Cleveland intake port to be filled also.
That's a lot of plastic. You will need to pin the filler.
From personal experience, I would expect it to come loose at some point in the future.
IF it does what it is advertised to do then it is a FANTASTIC price. The throttle tabs appear to be like the Weber tabs for the 427 Fords BUT the corresponding female tab is really some kind of a hokey one that I have never seen. Forget about adjusting those things to sync the TB's ON the car and that is the ONLY way you can do that.
Be cautioned that those long tabs have this little tendency of bending JUST a bit AFTER a WOT blast. They twist up so bad, the engine will idle like you just broke something in the valve train. That one took several years off of my life.
It needs 5" velocity stacks and that is one of the things you will need to source from a Weber 48 ida supplier.
I do not know if Weber IDA components like the velocity stacks will fit these throttle bodies. I PRESUME that they do?
The seller had NO IDEA WTF I was talking about when I asked them that. They just wanted to know if I wanted white rice or pork fry rice with it and if I was going to pick up or deliver?
They never answered. That probably means that they only understand Chinese (Mandarin?) or they have no idea what I was talking about?
So the answer is that you are probably on your own with the entire project.
I will point out that the way the listing is written about the intake manifold that it is VERY VERY UNLIKELY that a 289 manifold (which is the same as a 302 manifold), even though it is a split manifold, will bolt up to a C?
It would have had to been cast for the larger ports, i.e., the 4v Cleveland or the Boss 302. Completely forget about the 2v Aussie Cleveland heads. Not possible. Those ports are lower than the 4v C head ports.
Wanna' take bets on how it was cast? I don't.
Furthermore even if it did, just for the sake of discussion, a Cleveland iron port intake port is a complete mismatch for most of the aluminum aftermarket intake ports.
What that means is that just to get the thing to bolt up you are going to need to fill the bottom of the port about 5/8".
By the same token a 289-302 port is going to require the IRON 4v Cleveland intake port to be filled also.
That's a lot of plastic. You will need to pin the filler.
From personal experience, I would expect it to come loose at some point in the future.
IF it does what it is advertised to do then it is a FANTASTIC price. The throttle tabs appear to be like the Weber tabs for the 427 Fords BUT the corresponding female tab is really some kind of a hokey one that I have never seen. Forget about adjusting those things to sync the TB's ON the car and that is the ONLY way you can do that.
Be cautioned that those long tabs have this little tendency of bending JUST a bit AFTER a WOT blast. They twist up so bad, the engine will idle like you just broke something in the valve train. That one took several years off of my life.
It needs 5" velocity stacks and that is one of the things you will need to source from a Weber 48 ida supplier.
I do not know if Weber IDA components like the velocity stacks will fit these throttle bodies. I PRESUME that they do?
The seller had NO IDEA WTF I was talking about when I asked them that. They just wanted to know if I wanted white rice or pork fry rice with it and if I was going to pick up or deliver?
Nah, noodles.
FWIW there are 2 different part #:
Windsor: PC315W-8
Cleveland: PCE148.1077
FWIW there are 2 different part #:
Windsor: PC315W-8
Cleveland: PCE148.1077
You WANT to get pictures of the intake manifolds with dimensions of the ports.
I very much would like to see those. I just gave up on those people.
They no talkie with me, so me walkie!
Incidentally, that listing as written says application: 302 351c.
Should I be concerned?
I very much would like to see those. I just gave up on those people.
They no talkie with me, so me walkie!
Incidentally, that listing as written says application: 302 351c.
Should I be concerned?
I am not sure about this exact part but Speedmaster products are available through Jegs and Amazon. I am unsure how dealing with problems through Amazon would go, however I am guessing Jegs would honour a return of the product and your cash if there were blatant problems. You may have more luck speaking to a Jegs rep.
Most of you realize these forums are supported from the retirement of Debbie and I. I believe in the rule of law; lawlessness, immorality, and disrespect shall not be promoted within these forums while I am supporting them.
I am glad to support the sale of well made parts, by North American, European, or Australian companies. Parts sold by companies I know will treat our members with respect.
Parts made by the Chinese companies Pro Comp and Speed Master violate international patent laws, and have proven over and over again to be poor in quality. China has flagrantly thumbed its nose up at international law.
As much as it pains me to do this, I am locking-up this thread; something I haven't had to do in a long time.
I am glad to support the sale of well made parts, by North American, European, or Australian companies. Parts sold by companies I know will treat our members with respect.
Parts made by the Chinese companies Pro Comp and Speed Master violate international patent laws, and have proven over and over again to be poor in quality. China has flagrantly thumbed its nose up at international law.
As much as it pains me to do this, I am locking-up this thread; something I haven't had to do in a long time.