Is your engine in the crated box or a baby elephant?!...Markquote:Originally posted by bdud:
I shipped my engine out and it arrived at Kuntz & Co Friday. I will post an update on its prognosis. The broken valve spring should not have happened, everything was in in spec, I checked before I sent it off.
My engine was designed for a 6,700rpm limit and that is what my limiter is set for.
Comp cams only list 2 roller mech street cams for a 351c, I had a custom spec which was built between the 2.
I use 10w30 as per the builders recommendations.
The only camshaft lobs with marks were on cyl#4, the one with the rough time.
I used the same crate when the engine was shipped to me. Engine was mounted on engine stand with lift plate on top. In the crate is a pair of Pat Mical's headers with my MSD Atomic EFI for use on the dyno after its resurrection.
I have the dyno charts when they tested it before, gts / dyno headers, 650dp / dyno carb. I will post these in the 'dyno numbers' thread when I get a chance.
Not sure how much a small elephant weighs but my package was 400lbs according to fedex.
I have the dyno charts when they tested it before, gts / dyno headers, 650dp / dyno carb. I will post these in the 'dyno numbers' thread when I get a chance.
Not sure how much a small elephant weighs but my package was 400lbs according to fedex.
For future reference,
There's an outfit for shipping large items called "Forward Air". They have depots near every airport, but do NOT do door-to-door.
The price difference was HUGE for the package I wanted to send (like $85 instead of $1500).
I used them maybe 20 years ago, I'm sure they're still around.
There's an outfit for shipping large items called "Forward Air". They have depots near every airport, but do NOT do door-to-door.
The price difference was HUGE for the package I wanted to send (like $85 instead of $1500).
I used them maybe 20 years ago, I'm sure they're still around.
I have used Forward Air before, their closest location to me is over an hour away, so 4 hrs plus for taking there and picking up. Then paying for someone to deliver at the other end & collection.. I have used a couple of other shipping companies but there is quite a lot of value wrapped up in that crate.
If this had happened just a month ago I would have driven the engine down to them. I flew into Little Rock to buy a half started prostreet/restomod 1966 Mustang Convertible which we trailered back and I am working on. The one way air ticket to Little Rock was $490...
It cost $600 when the engine was shipped to me before but the pallet was taller and had a lot of stuff in there, it also weighed 700+ lbs.
If this had happened just a month ago I would have driven the engine down to them. I flew into Little Rock to buy a half started prostreet/restomod 1966 Mustang Convertible which we trailered back and I am working on. The one way air ticket to Little Rock was $490...
It cost $600 when the engine was shipped to me before but the pallet was taller and had a lot of stuff in there, it also weighed 700+ lbs.
Hello bdud; Readily appears that Kuntz & Co definately has the correct approach!
I REALLY LIKE the idea of the engine returning to you, broken in on the dyno, precisely tuned & ready for installation
Have you also had modifications/upgrades to the ZF to handle the 650dp?
Are you utilizing upgraded half-shafts & U-joints?
Does Kuntz & Co provide a video to the customer(you) during the engine break-in & dyno tuning?
Would be VERY interesting in my opinion to visually witness the progression of horsepower as the engine is "Dialed-In!
Will the engine use pump gas or need higher octane fuel?
When the engine crate returns...Christmas DEFINITELY
comes early!!!...Mark
I REALLY LIKE the idea of the engine returning to you, broken in on the dyno, precisely tuned & ready for installation
Have you also had modifications/upgrades to the ZF to handle the 650dp?
Are you utilizing upgraded half-shafts & U-joints?
Does Kuntz & Co provide a video to the customer(you) during the engine break-in & dyno tuning?
Would be VERY interesting in my opinion to visually witness the progression of horsepower as the engine is "Dialed-In!
Will the engine use pump gas or need higher octane fuel?
When the engine crate returns...Christmas DEFINITELY
comes early!!!...Markquote:650dp / dyno carb
I meant 650 double pumper, :-)
The engine made 626hp @ 6,700rpm, 557lb-ft @ 4,900rpm with dyno carb and headers but 552hp @ 6,200rpm, 505 lb-ft @ 4,800rpm with the MSD Atomic & GTS headers. Initial runs were with race gas they then used 93 octane which is common here. Hopefully they can tweak it a bit with Pat's headers. I am more than happy with the 550hp as that was what I asked for..
No mods to the ZF, I hear they are pretty tough.
I do have CV half-shafts.
Here is one video they sent me with the GTS headers. http://f.cl.ly/items/3624242n2...20j350o/IMG_0996.m4v
I have many run sheets.
Hello bdud; Have you considered running 180 headers?
TOO Bad, you couldn't have run the engine with the 180 headers on the dyno, to see the possibilty for increassed HP & torque & smoother idle.
I ENVY those engine building television shows, where the engine builders freely swap out carbs, headers, cams, heads,etc,etc, change timing to see the different HP & torque gains ( or NOT).
With the ability to purchase that "Race Gas" product...
http://www.maperformance.com/r...5-Aa0hEKoxoCFonw_wcB
having the ability/ies to customize the octane rating for various HP requirements is quite advantageous/beneficial...Mark
TOO Bad, you couldn't have run the engine with the 180 headers on the dyno, to see the possibilty for increassed HP & torque & smoother idle.
I ENVY those engine building television shows, where the engine builders freely swap out carbs, headers, cams, heads,etc,etc, change timing to see the different HP & torque gains ( or NOT).
With the ability to purchase that "Race Gas" product...
http://www.maperformance.com/r...5-Aa0hEKoxoCFonw_wcB
having the ability/ies to customize the octane rating for various HP requirements is quite advantageous/beneficial...Mark
I have no interest in running 180's, like the idea of having luggage space.
The engine runs on 93 octane which is readily available in MA.
6,700rpm rev limit.
Jim's guys have stripped the engine, welded and replaced the intake valve seat & re-cc'd the ports and chambers. New intake & exhaust valves (1 of each) & 1 piston ordered. Other head stripped also, cam, roller followers all checked, all ok. Going to Manley Nextek dual valve springs. Engine being built back up, hopefully it will come home soon.
The engine runs on 93 octane which is readily available in MA.
6,700rpm rev limit.
Jim's guys have stripped the engine, welded and replaced the intake valve seat & re-cc'd the ports and chambers. New intake & exhaust valves (1 of each) & 1 piston ordered. Other head stripped also, cam, roller followers all checked, all ok. Going to Manley Nextek dual valve springs. Engine being built back up, hopefully it will come home soon.
Like I said, you don't mess around!
Congrats on a speedy repair - looking forward to hearing you are back on the road soon!
Rocky
PS - We will need pictures of course! Do you have a forklift at your house to get that carte off the truck?
Congrats on a speedy repair - looking forward to hearing you are back on the road soon!
Rocky
PS - We will need pictures of course! Do you have a forklift at your house to get that carte off the truck?
I have a trailer hitch for my Focus ST and just use an engine hoist to lift it off.
Engine back together and ran on the dyno!!
Hopefully shipped out tomorrow.
Engine back together and ran on the dyno!!
Hopefully shipped out tomorrow.
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Nice dyno numbers. They did not tune it, used a "dyno" carb and Pat Micals headers.
With the dual Manley Nextel valve springs they had a slightly higher rev range which was more stable compared to the PAC single conical springs.
639.7hp @ 6,600rpm (can I call it 640hp?), 531.2 lb-ft @ 6,000rpm. My previous best run was 626hp @ 6,700rpm & 556.9 lb-ft back in Dec 2013, same cam etc. They hope to ship out tomorrow, possibly Monday.
With the dual Manley Nextel valve springs they had a slightly higher rev range which was more stable compared to the PAC single conical springs.
639.7hp @ 6,600rpm (can I call it 640hp?), 531.2 lb-ft @ 6,000rpm. My previous best run was 626hp @ 6,700rpm & 556.9 lb-ft back in Dec 2013, same cam etc. They hope to ship out tomorrow, possibly Monday.
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quote:Originally posted by bdud:
can I call it 640hp?
I thought it looked closer to 685?
but she sure ain't layin down!
It's not bolted into his yellow body yet. That's the difference.
Rocky
Rocky
Being that the engine NEVER came UP to operating temperature ( 126 F)
I state there is a few EXTRA Ponies at 200 F.
What was the octane rating of the fuel & total degrees of advance?
Very MUCH appreciate you posting the dyno #s
...Mark
I state there is a few EXTRA Ponies at 200 F.
What was the octane rating of the fuel & total degrees of advance?
Very MUCH appreciate you posting the dyno #s
...Markquote:Originally posted by 1Rocketship:
Being that the engine NEVER came UP to operating temperature ( 126 F)
I state there is a few EXTRA Ponies at 200 F.
What was the octane rating of the fuel & total degrees of advance?
Very MUCH appreciate you posting the dyno #s
Yes, too cool is giving away power but the oil temp is what you want.
That temperature can actually be determined on the dyno.
Every engine will have an optimum operating temperature. That's difficult to determine on the street. You would be just guessing at it.
Given the change with good air, bad air, you could be crediting the hp increase to the oil temp and in reality it could be a good air situation.
More than 25hp is created by cooler dry air...and about another 25hp is there for the taking with maintaining about 10 inches of vacuum in the crankcase under power.
I'm going to install a T fitting in the PVC line from the valve cover to the carb base & install a vacuum gauge to measure the amount of vacuum the engine has under power...Markquote:Originally posted by PanteraDoug:quote:Originally posted by 1Rocketship:
Being that the engine NEVER came UP to operating temperature ( 126 F)
I state there is a few EXTRA Ponies at 200 F.
What was the octane rating of the fuel & total degrees of advance?
Very MUCH appreciate you posting the dyno #s
Yes, too cool is giving away power but the oil temp is what you want.
That temperature can actually be determined on the dyno.
Every engine will have an optimum operating temperature. That's difficult to determine on the street. You would be just guessing at it.
Given the change with good air, bad air, you could be crediting the hp increase to the oil temp and in reality it could be a good air situation.
More than 25hp is created by cooler dry air...and about another 25hp is there for the taking with maintaining about 10 inches of vacuum in the crankcase under power.
The gauge has to go on the air intake side valve cover. The opposite of the pcv cover.
You want to read the vacuum in the crankcase, not the intake manifold. That's the closest place you could read it.
You could also hook it up to the oil dipstick tube...without the dipstick of course.
At idle it doesn't matter too much. A good pcv valve like the M/E Wagner is set out of the box for 0 to .5. It's also the only precision pcv valve that I know of.
You want to see 10 or so under power. 12 will be too high and suck the oil seals in. Even 8 would be fine.
If by some chance your crankcase vacuum is too high, you can adjust it down with the m/e/ wagner unit.
The now old style header evacuation tubes produced 3-4 which is not really enough.
The theory is that the vacuum helps seal the top piston ring better.
Nothing is a perfect design, it's just that this is 25 free hp. Lots of people give that away.
You want to read the vacuum in the crankcase, not the intake manifold. That's the closest place you could read it.
You could also hook it up to the oil dipstick tube...without the dipstick of course.
At idle it doesn't matter too much. A good pcv valve like the M/E Wagner is set out of the box for 0 to .5. It's also the only precision pcv valve that I know of.
You want to see 10 or so under power. 12 will be too high and suck the oil seals in. Even 8 would be fine.
If by some chance your crankcase vacuum is too high, you can adjust it down with the m/e/ wagner unit.
The now old style header evacuation tubes produced 3-4 which is not really enough.
The theory is that the vacuum helps seal the top piston ring better.
Nothing is a perfect design, it's just that this is 25 free hp. Lots of people give that away.
I have not got the build sheet, it is coming with the engine. I think they used race gas, 110+ octane, as the main intention was to verify everything and check for leaks. Last time they used 93 octane for the last runs as that is what I am using. Same compression ratio, camshaft etc as original build so the fundamentals have not changed. 30 degrees total timing was used which was determined during the original build.
quote:Originally posted by bdud:
I have not got the build sheet, it is coming with the engine. I think they used race gas, 110+ octane, as the main intention was to verify everything and check for leaks. Last time they used 93 octane for the last runs as that is what I am using. Same compression ratio, camshaft etc as original build so the fundamentals have not changed. 30 degrees total timing was used which was determined during the original build.
Some of the racers have been using 30-32 total advance on the track even though many of the engines were set up and tested with 35-36 on the dyno.
Some many thoughts swirling around my little walnut>>>quote:Originally posted by PanteraDoug:
The gauge has to go on the air intake side valve cover. The opposite of the pcv cover.
You want to read the vacuum in the crankcase, not the intake manifold. That's the closest place you could read it.
You could also hook it up to the oil dipstick tube...without the dipstick of course.
At idle it doesn't matter too much. A good pcv valve like the M/E Wagner is set out of the box for 0 to .5. It's also the only precision pcv valve that I know of.
You want to see 10 or so under power. 12 will be too high and suck the oil seals in. Even 8 would be fine.
If by some chance your crankcase vacuum is too high, you can adjust it down with the m/e/ wagner unit.
The now old style header evacuation tubes produced 3-4 which is not really enough.
The theory is that the vacuum helps seal the top piston ring better.
Nothing is a perfect design, it's just that this is 25 free hp. Lots of people give that away.
With Bud having a Brand New & properly broken in /sealed piston rings.
I wonder what Bud's crankcase vacuum is?...&...What is Bud's Breather vacuum?
...What is the two vacuum's differential numerically?!...Mark
quote:Originally posted by 1Rocketship:Some many thoughts swirling around my little walnut>>>quote:Originally posted by PanteraDoug:
The gauge has to go on the air intake side valve cover. The opposite of the pcv cover.
You want to read the vacuum in the crankcase, not the intake manifold. That's the closest place you could read it.
You could also hook it up to the oil dipstick tube...without the dipstick of course.
At idle it doesn't matter too much. A good pcv valve like the M/E Wagner is set out of the box for 0 to .5. It's also the only precision pcv valve that I know of.
You want to see 10 or so under power. 12 will be too high and suck the oil seals in. Even 8 would be fine.
If by some chance your crankcase vacuum is too high, you can adjust it down with the m/e/ wagner unit.
The now old style header evacuation tubes produced 3-4 which is not really enough.
The theory is that the vacuum helps seal the top piston ring better.
Nothing is a perfect design, it's just that this is 25 free hp. Lots of people give that away.
With Bud having a Brand New & properly broken in /sealed piston rings.
I wonder what Bud's crankcase vacuum is?...&...What is Bud's Breather vacuum?
...What is the two vacuum's differential numerically?!...Mark
Racers are using mechanical vacuum pumps to scientifically provide a steady constant vacuum.
I think that is a more reliable way of providing consistent vacuum to the crankcase than taking it off of the intake manifold.
Individual runner manifolds are not the best sources of engine vacuum for one thing. Single plenums provide more volume of vacuum.
However the crankcase doesn't need exorbitant volumes. One 3/8" fuel line seems to be fine.
My car is a work in progress in that respect. I may need to go to a separate electrical vacuum pump on the car. Certainly to get a NASCAR type mechanical pump working of the crank pulley isn't a slam dunk. I can't find a place to put it?