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I have read all the threads on this but still can't figure it out.
I can get all gears no problem EXCEPT reverse with the gate on. If I remove the gate, then I can get reverse no problem. The lever is not sitting exactly centered, in other words it needs to be rotated a little to the right, maybe an 1/8". I removed the shift box cover and loosened the two set screws, then I rotated the shaft, and the lever did move to the right, but when I go to re-tighten it goes right back where it was, almost like there is a flat on the shaft that when the screw hits it, re-centers it to the same place.

Is there another place to rotate the shift lever?

I should add, I have no play at the U joint going into the box, but do have a very little where the rod enters the box, also quite a bit of slop at the trunnion bearing , an 1/8" or a little more, but moving it side to side does not move the lever.
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Rotating at the splines affects the L/R positioning of the shift lever, and sliding along the splines (within the range of the notches in the shafts) affects fore and aft positioning of the shift lever. "Fine tuning" is done at the turnbuckle.

The turnbuckle is also used to lengthen or shorten the shift shaft if you run out of "notch" adjustment at the u-joint.

Since yours seems to be pretty close, make the L/R adjustment at the turnbuckle. Then, if you need fore/aft adjustment, make that at the u-joint by loosening the pinch bolt.

John
To add to JB's comments, the turnbuckle jam-nuts have both left and right-hand threads, so when disturbing the OEM setting, look closely at the nuts before using cheater-bars to move them. They are always VERY tight.
Shifting the u-joint one full spline may fix reverse and cause problems with 4th & 5th. When I had such a problem on a customer car, I bevelled the inside of the (aftermarket) shift gate a little with a Dremel so the shift stick could lay over far enough to engage reverse.
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