I bought this nice kit from Hall, jute included. I need some installion tips. What to do..what not to do....tks
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Looks like a nice puzzle!
Can you show me a pic?..of an installed kit?
Wish I could.
I bought a similar kit for the front trunk a couple of years ago (not from Hall). And for the life of me I could never align the pieces to the floor. After much frustration, I ended up sending the kit back and taking the car to a professional.
I bought a similar kit for the front trunk a couple of years ago (not from Hall). And for the life of me I could never align the pieces to the floor. After much frustration, I ended up sending the kit back and taking the car to a professional.
This is how I installed my carpets.
Start with the inner sill (rocker) carpets. There is really only one way to hold the carpet down in this area, and that is to glue it down. You could glue velcro but it is never as neat. Screws do not hold it down uniformly, and you have got a live battery cable in the right hand rocker! Besides why would you need to remove this piece of carpet? I suggest you use an impact adhesive here. I like the brush on stuff because it is less messy. If you choose to use spray adhesive, you will have to mask off everything you do not want glue on. If you get spray adhesive on carpet, you will never get it off. the same goes for brush-on adhesive. The main difference between brush-on impact adhesive and spray-on impact adhesive is strength. If you make a mistake with the spray on stuff, meaning you stick it in the wrong place, you may be able to pull it off and have another go. But the brush on stuff you only get one chance. Once it's stuck, it's stuck.
The pieces of carpet around the fuse and relay doors are just clued on. You could use little screws if you find it is not holding down at the edges. But once again watch out for wires. The piece around the wheel house is simply glued on. The piece at the end of each foot well is best held in with velcro, in case you need to get to your top rear suspension bolts.
As for the main carpets, start with the sound deadening felt in the foot wells. The Pantera has that curved chassis rail protruding into the foot well on both sides. After your new carpet settles in, these chassis rails will begin to show through and spoil your nice flat foot well carpet. To elevate this problem take a 9" grinder and cut the chassis rail right out of there... Just kidding! Build up the foot well area with multiple layers of felt. Try to taper it down towards the centre console, other wise you will end up with a step at the console side. You do not have to use felt to build up this area if you do not want to. An alternative would be to use neoprene foam like a camping mattress. It would be a good idea to glue these bits in to stop them moving around. Then when you have got a reasonably flat looking foot well, you can cut one big piece of felt to cover the entire floor from front to back. Do not glue this down. If you want to do a neat job, make a template out of paper or card. To find out where the holes are for the seat bolts, at the rear you can dip a small screw driver into a tin of paint and stick it up through the threaded holes in the floor until it touches the felt. The front bolts go into the chassis member. So here I suggest you put the bolts back in, then mark the heads with more paint. Weight the felt down so that it does not move as you lift it up and down to do this. Now you can trial fit the carpet. It is not necessary to secure the carpet to the rear floor pan. The seat will hold in place very securely. The front however will need to be fastened with carpet ring popper clips. These are very clever little clips that bury themselves in the pile of the carpet and become invisible. The invisible ring goes through the carpet and holds a female popper onto the underside of the carpet. Then the male part it fastened to the chassis with a screw. I space the male part by putting a nut under them, other wise the carpet is pulled down into the felt and does not sit flat. I do not like to drill holes in my floor pans because it looks crap from underneath. So I only drill holes where there is a chassis member at the other side. I made my floor carpets in 2 pieces, front part and rear part. But I see your carpet is in 1 piece so you will only really need to fasten it down along the curved chassis rail. I suggest you use a couple of these popper clips in that area. This is all that is required to hold the floor carpets in place. You can get the popper clips from http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/Materials.html#carpet
If after you have installed the carpet you can see the sound deadening felt through gaps. I use black felt under the carpet in these areas, it makes the caps disappear. The same type as is found under the front luggage compartment.
When using the brush-on glue in the car, try to rig up a fan to blow the fumes out. The first time I glued carpets in I did not do this and felt a little light headed that night. The next day I had bright yellow liquid run out of my nose. My doctor said it was some kind of sinal discharge and had never seen it before!
Hope this helps, Johnny
Start with the inner sill (rocker) carpets. There is really only one way to hold the carpet down in this area, and that is to glue it down. You could glue velcro but it is never as neat. Screws do not hold it down uniformly, and you have got a live battery cable in the right hand rocker! Besides why would you need to remove this piece of carpet? I suggest you use an impact adhesive here. I like the brush on stuff because it is less messy. If you choose to use spray adhesive, you will have to mask off everything you do not want glue on. If you get spray adhesive on carpet, you will never get it off. the same goes for brush-on adhesive. The main difference between brush-on impact adhesive and spray-on impact adhesive is strength. If you make a mistake with the spray on stuff, meaning you stick it in the wrong place, you may be able to pull it off and have another go. But the brush on stuff you only get one chance. Once it's stuck, it's stuck.
The pieces of carpet around the fuse and relay doors are just clued on. You could use little screws if you find it is not holding down at the edges. But once again watch out for wires. The piece around the wheel house is simply glued on. The piece at the end of each foot well is best held in with velcro, in case you need to get to your top rear suspension bolts.
As for the main carpets, start with the sound deadening felt in the foot wells. The Pantera has that curved chassis rail protruding into the foot well on both sides. After your new carpet settles in, these chassis rails will begin to show through and spoil your nice flat foot well carpet. To elevate this problem take a 9" grinder and cut the chassis rail right out of there... Just kidding! Build up the foot well area with multiple layers of felt. Try to taper it down towards the centre console, other wise you will end up with a step at the console side. You do not have to use felt to build up this area if you do not want to. An alternative would be to use neoprene foam like a camping mattress. It would be a good idea to glue these bits in to stop them moving around. Then when you have got a reasonably flat looking foot well, you can cut one big piece of felt to cover the entire floor from front to back. Do not glue this down. If you want to do a neat job, make a template out of paper or card. To find out where the holes are for the seat bolts, at the rear you can dip a small screw driver into a tin of paint and stick it up through the threaded holes in the floor until it touches the felt. The front bolts go into the chassis member. So here I suggest you put the bolts back in, then mark the heads with more paint. Weight the felt down so that it does not move as you lift it up and down to do this. Now you can trial fit the carpet. It is not necessary to secure the carpet to the rear floor pan. The seat will hold in place very securely. The front however will need to be fastened with carpet ring popper clips. These are very clever little clips that bury themselves in the pile of the carpet and become invisible. The invisible ring goes through the carpet and holds a female popper onto the underside of the carpet. Then the male part it fastened to the chassis with a screw. I space the male part by putting a nut under them, other wise the carpet is pulled down into the felt and does not sit flat. I do not like to drill holes in my floor pans because it looks crap from underneath. So I only drill holes where there is a chassis member at the other side. I made my floor carpets in 2 pieces, front part and rear part. But I see your carpet is in 1 piece so you will only really need to fasten it down along the curved chassis rail. I suggest you use a couple of these popper clips in that area. This is all that is required to hold the floor carpets in place. You can get the popper clips from http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/Materials.html#carpet
If after you have installed the carpet you can see the sound deadening felt through gaps. I use black felt under the carpet in these areas, it makes the caps disappear. The same type as is found under the front luggage compartment.
When using the brush-on glue in the car, try to rig up a fan to blow the fumes out. The first time I glued carpets in I did not do this and felt a little light headed that night. The next day I had bright yellow liquid run out of my nose. My doctor said it was some kind of sinal discharge and had never seen it before!
Hope this helps, Johnny
Wish you were on the east coast USA, noted..thanks johnny woods....ughh I still have a lot of work to do. UPDATE! The job went well..thanks for the instructions Johnny. Now I need to make some more inside kick panals...I'm thinking covered aluminum 
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