Changing Motor Mounts

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Originally posted by Cozman:
Is it possible to change the motor mounts without removing the motor and gearbox ?

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Yes, it is possible. What is the problem that makes you ask the question?
Goran Malmberg.

Problems have arisen when polyurethane, or anything other than rubber, is used in motor mounts. There have been a few posts in this regard, though I do not expect that everyone has read every post, of course. There has been a suggested fix, that is, a heat shield fabricated of aluminum, attached to the motor mount, to shield the motor mount shock absorbant material from heat degredation. I think that was a pretty innovative solution, and worth repeating. When a guy has a very high output engine, a lot of heat can accumulate near the headers, and thus melt anything other than rubber, as in the motor mounts. This heat can also cause other problems, like prblems with wiring, electrical devices, etc., so that's why I really liked the motor mounted heat shield solution. Another additive solution is to ceramic coat the headers to cause the heat to not transfer to the header surface, but rather to be expelled out the exhaust tip. So, the hot set-up would be a combination of the three: (1) rubber motor mounts; (2) an aluminum heat shield mounted at the motor mount, deflecting heat away from the motor mounts [and starter, etc]; and (3) ceramic coated headers to insulate the headers themselves from conducting heat. This is the 'cool set-up' for high performance engines, run at maximum performance. IMHO.

The left side melted.
I have been told to remove the assembly, you'll have to remove the nuts from the lower motor mounts below the frame (both sides) and jack up the engine so the bolts pull clear of the frame. You should pull both horizontal ZF bolts from the rear
mounts, just so the tabs don't twist.
At this point they should slide out and I should be able to slide the new ones in.

Will let you know how it goes when I do it in the next couple of weeks.

quote:

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Originally posted by Cozman:
Is it possible to change the motor mounts without removing the motor and gearbox ?

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I've never taken a motor mount out before, but before I had to replace it with a polyurethane 'new' motor mount, I'd get an old truck tire and take a chain saw, circular saw, or jig saw to the tire tread and fashion a new 'doughnut' in the same pattern as the old motor mount and install it. If it was not a nut and bolt type of task, I'd take it to a welder or a machine shop if I had to, and have them replace the ruined 'anti-vibration' material with the tire tread or sidewall that had some bias ply or tread material that was reinforced with steel or fiberglass threads to make sure it would stand up to the heat and stress for the task of a motor mount. It's task is simply to isolate the vibration and torquing of the motor, but unfortunately, has to withstand heat stress as well.

Regards,
Ron

Huh ?????

I'll just buy the after market rubber type for 28.00 each from Pantera East and replace them like Gary and Jack have told me.

Chain Saw, Circular Saw ? I'm not cutting down a tree, I'm replacing the rubber donuts in the motor mount.

quote:

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Originally posted by ron norman:
I've never taken a motor mount out before, but before I had to replace it with a polyurethane 'new' motor mount, I'd get an old truck tire and take a chain saw, circular saw, or jig saw to the tire tread and fashion a new 'doughnut' in the same pattern as the old motor mount and install it. If it was not a nut and bolt type of task, I'd take it to a welder or a machine shop if I had to, and have them replace the ruined 'anti-vibration' material with the tire tread or sidewall that had some bias ply or tread material that was reinforced with steel or fiberglass threads to make sure it would stand up to the heat and stress for the task of a motor mount. It's task is simply to isolate the vibration and torquing of the motor, but unfortunately, has to withstand heat stress as well.

Regards,
Ron

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I replaced the rubber mounts in my GT5S this summer, they were poly items bought from hall pantera and lasted 3000km before they burnt so bad the motor tilted forward causing the aircon pump to grind against the firewall. I used original factory rubber donuts and made a heat shield simply by bending a piece of aluminium, drilled and bolted on the assembly. Fairly easy to do them if you have a high ramp, didnt even have to remove the headers.

http://www.geocities.com/provamo72/MurphyMotorMount.html

Note the configuration in the image.
Hole goes towards tehfront.

Chuck

I just find myself wondering why Hall Pantera sells poly motor mounts, evidently with no cautions to add a heat shield, when they are so well known for melting when put into real life service? I could see Joe's Hot Rod Service not knowing any better, but Gary Hall? Are the owners putting these in not reading the instructions, or has no one told Gary they don't work ??

Larry

I have told him they dont work, and he claims all his cars are fine and blamed my headers. Then told him it was fitted with his headers: no reply. Its not a suitable material for high temps, its that simple!

FWIW - My car has what appears to be red polyurethane engine mounts that must have been installed by the previous owner. After four years of ownership there is no indication of heat damage of any kind on either one of them. My headers are Jet-Hot coated so this may make a difference??

Bob

The engineering concern not usually adressed in motor mounts is the "density" or make up or the rubber. Most aftermarket stuff is not correct. Check with Pat Michal Performance Automotive, in
Chelmsford, MA for the real deal on motor mounts. Discount Auto is not the way to go.