Coolant or gasoline in oil?

White colored oil indicates water (coolant) in the oil. Gasoline would just dilute the oil and not change its color. Enough gasoline dilution and you could have a serious explosion in the crankcase.

Any radiator shop can check for combustion gasses in the coolant, but they won't be able to tell you how its getting there. Head gasket, cracked head, or cracked block are the usual places.

Pull the spark plugs and look for one (spark plug) that has moisture on it or has a rusty appearance.

Let us know what you find.

John

It doesn't take much coolant in engine oil for it to form an emulsion.

A head gasket leak to combustion chamber would normally show up as either a) white smoke (steam) from one bank on the exhaust as the rings should do their job in preventing that water getting into the crankcase. or b) over pressured coolant system.

A water passage to oilway leak is often very difficult to pin down as once you remove parts the evidence is often lost. Being optimistic and assuming it's not a cracked block, the two most likely places are head gasket or water pump/timing cover leak. First I'd pull the intake manifold and see if there is any evidence of coolant in the valley.

Has the car been subject to any extreme cold temperatures?

Julian

Carlo,

Welcome to the forum. Sorry your motivation to greet us is because of a problem.

Yes, coolant is getting into your oil system - no doubt. The only way to check a Pantera's coolant level is with some sort of dipstick placed into the overflow tank, so it is difficult to really see how much you are losing.

The Cleveland is a dry-intake manifold engine, so sadly that removes your leak from just being an intake manifold gasket issue.

That leaves head gasket or head/block crack. John's suggestions are good and may at least put you on the right side of the engine.

In most cases, if you are pretty sure what head is the trouble child, you can carefully pull the head and you will see the gasket problem area. If that is the case, you can then be pretty sure that is the problem and not a crack, and your fix will be a new head gasket.

If you have basic tools, good skills and a bit of nerve, head gaskets are not rocket science.

There are other owners in your neck of the woods that you might be able to enlist for help. They may chime in on this thread in good time.

Keep us in touch with your progress and don't be a stranger.

Larry

Hello again and thanks for your suggestions. Yes, I suspected also to be the coolant in the oil. We pulled the engine out of the car, After snapping off some headers bolts, without any room to drill them out, also the gas tank rusty and leaking, I though it would be a good idea to remove the whole motor, not an easy job without the proper tools. Removed the transaxle first, then the engine assembly. I think this will keep me busy for the next 5 months as now it is the time to replace the clutch, water pump, gas tank, I would send the heads out to check for cracks. I will download pictures next time and I will have some questions for you when the re-assembling time comes. And by the way, wish me luck.
Carlo.

Hello, blown gaskets, that was the problem on my car.
Carlo.

both sides

Okay, that is good news - compared to what it COULD have been.

Issue now is do you plan on doing anything to the heads, or just doing gaskets and putting it all back together?

If so, you should be aware of one problem area with the stock heads. The valves are two piece - that is, the heads were welded to the stems.

They are known to come apart. When they do, the damage can be such that it is new motor time.

Of course new valves, means at least a valve seat regrind. And while you are at it, the stock rubber stem seals are known for hardening over time, breaking, dropping little pieces into the oil pan, getting sucked up into the oil pump, and shearing the distributor gear drive pin.

With just 21K miles on the stock heads, they should have plenty of life left in them.. But new valves and better stem seals should be given strong consideration.

Your motor does look very clean with no sludge - a nice thing to see.

Larry

Very busy weekend, they said heads are fine, just gaskets with new head bolts. Larry, thank you for the valve advices, but with that low mileage, we left them alone, removed the oil pan, that white stuff was everywhere. We are going to replace the water pump and clutch, the gas tank is at the radiator shop, they said it can be fixed. I know the torque value for head bolts is 100 pounds. What kind of grease for the transaxle? What is the best grade of motor oil and what viscosity for New Jersey cold weather?

gasket on

#2

Carlo,

You really should consider having hardened exhaust valve seats installed in the heads, as the stock heads are not "compatible" with unleaded gas.

I walked into my local machine shop the other day, and as I entered, I saw this set of Ford heads sitting by the counter. The exhaust valves immediately caught my eye. They were sunken almost 1/4" below the tops of the intake valves! I joked with the machinist about them and he said that the owner couldn't figure out why the engine kept loosing power. I don't know how many miles were on the heads.

The torque on the head bolts is 95 to 105 ft-lbs. Torque in sequence to 50 ft-lbs, then to 60 ft-lbs, and then to specs (95 to 105). Disregard any info that says that you don't have to retorque. Retorque the head bolts after the engine has been thoroughly warmed up. I followed the procedure above and thought about not retorquing, but changed my mind. Torque had dropped to 80 ft-lbs! RETORQUE!

John

Carlo,
In an earlier post you suggested that you will be reusing your valves because you have low mileage. I had 30k when an exhaust valve came apart. Not a pretty sight. Fortunately I can have it sleeved but the head is trashed.

Now is the time to replace them.
Mark

Carlo,

If not already done, I have some advice for your intake gasket installation.

The end valleys are prone to leaking oil. The rubber seals will tend to squeeze out.

Please see this earlier thread for some ideas:

http://tinyurl.com/ybl4bwz

Larry

Definitely replace your valves. The stock valves are two piece valves that are friction welded together. Unfortunately, they have a nasty habit is coming apart and dropping the valve into the cylinder. I've seen pictures of too many 'low mileage' engines which have suffered this fate.

And welcome to this forum!

quote:

thank you for the valve advice, but with that low mileage, we left them alone,