Cooling pipe dimensions.

Let me refer you to this webpage:

http://www.panterasbywilkinson.com/webpages/catalog/ill18a.html

It is the De Tomaso catalog, as hosted/displayed at PanterasbyWilkinson.

Click on any number to get more information on that part.

Bear in mind, you cannot remove the long pipe with the engine installed, without cutting it, of course.

And likewise, insert a full length replacement.

Vendors sell kits that have both pipe runs as a two pipe unit.

And any pipe you source will not have the proper raised bead for helping retain the rubber hoses. Some owners have found success in soldering a ring of solid copper wire to serve as a suitable bead.

I know this isn't all the info you asked for, but it is a start.

Larry

Sometime ago I needed to replace the tubes also, they were just plain tired..So just for fun I went to a scrap yard to get some other things and found that they sold SS tubing. The ID was a little bigger and the hoses fit a little snug but it has worked great for 7 years. Are you sitting down? I got 20 feet of SS tubing for $10.00. Never a leak.

If it's just the pipes under the car I purchased 6' foot lengths from McMaster-Carr to replace mine. If I recall correctly O.D. is 1 3/8". The ribs at the end are not so important in my opinion, I just cut the pipes to length and installed them, never a leak. I did take the opportunity to braid all hoses and double clamped them with SS constant tension clamps.

Julian

I have the old brass set from under my car. They never leaked and worked fine... You can have them for 20 bucks, if you have a US shipping address...

I have bought aluminum finned tubing to replace mine. I will have to cut it up and weld fittings on but should be a little different.

The cooling tubes are 1-3/8" outside diameter. The original one piece pipe measures ~61" long. The stainless two piece pipe set that I have measures 37" and 23", for a total of 60". This would leave about 1" +/- between the two pipes at the connecting hose.

If you can find someone that has a beading tool, you could have them put the beads on your tubes. As mentioned in several other posts, the hoses seem to seal just fine (and not blow off) without the bead. I have one tube in my car that doesn't have any beading. It has never given me any problems and it's been in there a very long time.

Beading forming tools, tube benders, etc are available from Williams Lowbuck Tools Inc.

They sell metal working tools geared towards the hot rod, custom car & auto racing community.

www.lowbucktools.com

You could also use 1-1/4" copper pipe. It measures 1-3/8" OD and is available at most builders supply. It may be about the same cost as the stainless, I haven't checked. The copper comes in different wall thicknesses (referred to as "type"), but the OD is the same. Type M (red stripe and lettering) has the thinnest wall; Type L (blue stripe and lettering) is the next thicker wall; Type K (green stripe and lettering) has the heaviest wall, is the most expensive, and is harder to find. And, to complete this more-information- than-you-wanted-to-know, there is a fourth pipe referred to as DWV. It has a yellow stripe and lettering, and it's wall thickness is between that of M and L.

Should I have started a new topic and called it "Plumbing 101"?

quote:

You could also use 1-1/4" copper pipe.

One often mentioned shortcoming of copper pipe-

It is a much better conductor of heat than SS. Thus, it radiates more heat than SS. Thus it increases the radiant heat that heats your under-car tunnel, which in turn heats the cabin, which in turn makes your shirt stick to the back of your seat.

Larry

quote:

One often mentioned shortcoming of copper pipe-

It is a much better conductor of heat than SS. Thus, it radiates more heat than SS. Thus it increases the radiant heat that heats your under-car tunnel, which in turn heats the cabin, which in turn makes your shirt stick to the back of your seat.

That's why I have the AC!

Don't forgot about the heat from the radiator.

quote:

It is a much better conductor of heat than SS. Thus, it radiates more heat than SS. Thus it increases the radiant heat that heats your under-car tunnel, which in turn heats the cabin, which in turn makes your shirt stick to the back of your seat.

But thats what we are trying to do disapate the heat ... a little DYNAMAT and your all set on the tunnel ...and you have an added cooling capacity .... the "M" tubing would work because the application here is MAX 18 lbs and MAX temp 220 ... the same as any heating system where the specs would be the same. Only you may want to consider "L" tubing because of its strength. 11/4" Plumbing is inside diameter ... where 13/8 is OD refirgerantion tubing. Same tubing but referenced different. The 11/4 "L" is cheaper ..Refirgeration is ACR or MED GAS tubing.

My 2 cents