Dash removed

You might check the filter on the AC if your not getting real cold air..

Mike, I am just about to pull my dash as well. How hard is it? Any useful suggestions or tips to offer?

Thanks in advance,
EA

Mike,
I also have my dash out.
I am going through my HVAC system as well as the column like you.
I am modding my pedals for better foot clearance and better organizing the wiring.
I will be sending my gauges out and having work done on them also.

My dash was just laying in my car when I bought it so most of the screws were missing and some of the mounting tabs were broken off. My car is pre-L so now might be a good time for me to change to a L dash for better gauge visibility.

Mike...with your dash out,as Pittcrew mentioned check your HVAC. Also while it's out be sure to check your heater blower motor. It's easy to remove, and more important your not laying on your back, don't ask me how I know. The brushes are easy to replace and will last another thirty years...

You guys will probably think im nuts, but im not putting the heat/ac unit back in. Never use it. Ive read so many posts of all the updates to the hoses, compressor, etc. and most people arent satisfied with the results. Someday if I change my mind I will look into a small street rod type unit....

EA

Its not too bad a job. I sent you a email yesterday, did you get it ? Feel free to contact me.

Mike

Pittcrew,EA,

I have a single red wire that is with the speedo wires. It has a factory spade end on it. Cant find a place for it....any ideas ?

Mike, I have a white wire in the same spot that is not connected to anything. No idea. Only other thing I can think of is your e-brake light. Does it work when you pull the brake?

ps. I did not get an email or PM from you. You can email me at ea2010@yahoo.com

Clean and tighen the main ground stud and nut that sits right were the steering wheel would be. Look for the bundle of black wires going to a welded stud. That often leads to bad eletrical issues down the road.

Change the light bulbs. Somewhere there is a post about different wattage bulbs that offer a little better lighting.

Check under the windshield rubber. Sometime they leak due to a poor fit. Consider sealing or at a min. inspecting to see if there is a serious rust problem underway.

JackD indicates there is a small screen in the A/C expansion valve that needs cleaning or removal after so many years. Since it is easily accessable now, perhaps a good time to clean. it does mean opening the AC lines which means a vac and recharge is in order.

Tie down and silence the wire harnesses. You might fix a random noise from something banging around.

Clean and inspect the fuse box.

The peddle box has a two coil springs to return and hold the clutch and brake peddles in place. They can fracture over the years. A chore of a job if you are up for the "concourse" approach.

Check the heater coolant hardlines. MAke sure they are sound. Don't want no pinhole leaks in the cab. They are welded in so do not try to tug them out.

Last one; do you still want/trust running all of the current though the old amp meter? Shunt the meter if not done alreay or replace the amp meter with a aftermarket volt meter. Volt meters are a safer option.

quote:

Originally posted by midenginemike:
Pittcrew,EA,

I have a single red wire that is with the speedo wires. It has a factory spade end on it. Cant find a place for it....any ideas ?

Mike,
I have that same red wire in my speedometer bundle too. I did some looking and cant find a place for it either.
For some dumb reason I took a pic of the back of every gauge before I disconnected them except the speedo.

I would like to know where it goes also.

This is a nice and inexpensive volt meter. It is a close match in looks to the OEM. The bezel is a little different but not noticeably different.

The gauge is manufactured by Waves instrument. Here is the information from Make Waves: Yes that is a MAKE WAVES gauge. It's our item 2400; also if you have a local NAPA (BALKAMP) store there gauge number is 501-1737. CARQUEST stores also carry this gauge as there part number 81396. We make the gauge as you can see for BALKAMP and CARQUEST it's the exact same gauge. I hope this helps you.

I purchased mine from NAPA & it was under $20.

OEM Size, 2-1/16" Diameter
All Metal Cases
OEM Style Backlit Illumination
Unconditional 10 Year Warranty


A. # 2200 Ammeter Gauge, 60 Amp Scale, Uses # 8015 Kit
B. # 2204 Ammeter Gauge, 30 Amp Scale, Uses # 8015 Kit
C. # 2210 Ammeter Gauge, 60 Amp Scale, Uses # 8015 Kit
D. # 3400 Temperature Gauge, Mechanical, Adaptors Included
E. # 3410 Temperature Gauge, Mechanical, Adaptors Included
F. # 2300 Temperature Gauge, Electric, Sender Included
# 2500 Temperature Gauge, Electric, Sender Included
G. # 2100 Oil Pressure Gauge, Mechanical, Uses # 8010 Kit
# 2600 Oil Pressure Gauge, Electric, Sender Included
H. # 2400 Volt Gauge, 8 - 16V
I. # 2110 Oil Pressure Gauge, Mechanical, Uses #8010 Kit

Thanks guys for the ideas. I really thought I would get blasted for NOT putting the heater/ac unit back in. I never use it, the ac doesnt work, so why not...I plan on adding some more ground points. Dont like all those ring terminals stacked up. I will closely examine the wire harness too. And where does that red wire go anyway ? I cant believe how bad the dash is. Thats some very cheap plastic. Polypropylene I think. Spent several evenings with a plastic welder fixing cracks. A heat lamp or two will soften it enough to move it back to almost any position.

I have my dash out as well.

I am redoing the HVAC with a better evaporator core and O-ring fittings throughout (rather than the stock flare fittings).

I am also installing the wiring for the headlight relay mod. Go to Pantera Place for the details.

HTH

B.G.

quote:

Originally posted by midenginemike:
Thanks guys for the ideas. I really thought I would get blasted for NOT putting the heater/ac unit back in.

I just purchases a small heater unit from Vintage Air to replace the entire heating and A/C system. I don't use A/C. After weighing everything in the A/C system it was almost 100lbs.

quote:

I have a single red wire that is with the speedo wires. It has a factory spade end on it. Cant find a place for it....any ideas ?

quote:

I have that same red wire in my speedometer bundle too. I did some looking and cant find a place for it either.

Mike & Brooke,

On the '72 cars, the red wire comes from the low temp fan relay and is not connected. There should be a yellow wire that connects to the fan indicator lamp in the speedo. This comes from the hi temp fan relay. I guess that someone (somewhere) decided that it was better (?) to not turn on the indicator/waring lamp until the cooling system reached a higher temp. With the two wires available, you could add another indicator lamp to let you know that the low temp fan was on. Actually, the indicator lamp(s) would only tell you that the relay had closed and that the fan should have power to it.

The really cool thing to do would be to replace the indicator lamp with a two color LED. You could have a green lamp (LED) for low temp fan on, and a red lamp (LED) for hi temp fan on.

I am thinking of pulling my A/C system as well. It wasn't working when I bought the car last March and I felt I didn't need it over the summer.

Two questions:

If you pull all the A/C plumbing, how hard would it be (in the future) to install the A/C kit that places the condensor up front (behind the rad)?

Are you guys leaving your A/C compressor in place or removing it as well?

quote:

Originally posted by jb1490:

quote:

I have a single red wire that is with the speedo wires. It has a factory spade end on it. Cant find a place for it....any ideas ?

quote:

I have that same red wire in my speedometer bundle too. I did some looking and cant find a place for it either.

Mike & Brooke,

On the '72 cars, the red wire comes from the low temp fan relay and is not connected. There should be a yellow wire that connects to the fan indicator lamp in the speedo. This comes from the hi temp fan relay. I guess that someone (somewhere) decided that it was better (?) to not turn on the indicator/waring lamp until the cooling system reached a higher temp. With the two wires available, you could add another indicator lamp to let you know that the low temp fan was on. Actually, the indicator lamp(s) would only tell you that the relay had closed and that the fan should have power to it.

The really cool thing to do would be to replace the indicator lamp with a two color LED. You could have a green lamp (LED) for low temp fan on, and a red lamp (LED) for hi temp fan on.

JB,
Thanks for the info and suggestion!

Mike,

Thought you would get a kick outta this pic. Glad this was left alone during the 1st restoration. My car was originally Grabber Blue and close to your car in production.

Dave # 3463

Same goes for #3528!

quote:

The really cool thing to do would be to replace the indicator lamp with a two color LED. You could have a green lamp (LED) for low temp fan on, and a red lamp (LED) for hi temp fan on.

Okay, I'll bite.

A quick search showed some two color LEDs, but I'm not clear on how you would wire them. Most are only two pin, color depends on direction of current. Some are built with wired-in flashing mode. Are the three pin units the ones to use?

I have the one fan light, and it is wired to indicate the SECOND fan has come on. Would be nice to see when they both are operating.

And could they somehow be wired using current transformers to REALLY show when they are working rather than just when power is switched through the relays?

Larry

Anyone have pics of the original upholstery on/in the glove box ?

Thanks, Mike

Mike,
My car sat outside without a windshield at some point so the inside of my glove box is pretty rough but you can get the idea.

Its the same material that is on the outside of the dash.My car is a 72.

Hope this helps

Brooke,

My upholstery guy was wondering if the front is one piece or is the part around the knob, down in the "pocket", a seperate piece. If its all one piece wouldnt the vinyl tend to shrink up out of the "pocket?"

Thanks, Mike

Sorry it took me so long, but I just bought this glove box last year. It is a NOS unit. I never did put the latch in the door. Kinda dirty but you get the idea.
Jeff

Mike,
Here are more pics.
You can see how the material wraps around and was glued at the back.
Mine did shrink in the inside but it also got wet. If you keep it dry you might not have a problem.
If you need more pics let me know.

Thanks guys !!! Thats what I needed to see. The glove compartment, fuse box door, and shifter bezel are steel and were never primed or painted = rust under the vinyl. Some cost saving measure!

Mike

Its going back together !!

Ths is how to make your gauges bright.....