Deck Lid frame - skin gap

I don't know what he used, but when 2511 was restored for a previous owner, Dennis Quella did a beautiful job doing just that.

You might try giving him a call and asking what he uses?

Larry

Thanks Larry, I'll do that.

Please let us know what Dennis tells you.
Thanks

I like you didn't like the space. I didn't want to get too involved so I used black silicone GE caulking. It dries glossy and serves the purpose of reducing the sheet netal rattle.

I would foam it with epoxy foam ...might be a little messy and you could reduce it by carefully duct taping one side ... or they might just make something in the autobody business for this specific appliation ?

Its really not a case of 'filling the gap', but one of rebonding the two panels together so there is no gap as they are supposed to be in contact with only a small amount of adhesive beteen them. The automotive World has a number of panel adhesives (3M or Lord Fusor are two good brands) get one for metal to metal panel bonding and clamp or place the piece on something to support the ribs such that wieght of the deck forces the panels together until the adhesive sets. Maybe a couple of those large welding magnets with N-S orientation would provide enough clamping force.

Good luck,
Julian

quote:

Originally posted by Joules5:
Its really not a case of 'filling the gap', but one of rebonding the two panels together so there is no gap as they are supposed to be in contact with only a small amount of adhesive beteen them. The automotive World has a number of panel adhesives (3M or Lord Fusor are two good brands) get one for metal to metal panel bonding and clamp or place the piece on something to support the ribs such that wieght of the deck forces the panels together until the adhesive sets. Maybe a couple of those large welding magnets with N-S orientation would provide enough clamping force.

Julian

Good luck,
Julian

Careful there sparky. Clamp it too tightly and you will crimple the outside of the deck. Better off leaving it as it sits and filling it.

quote:

Originally posted by PanteraDoug:
Careful there sparky. Clamp it too tightly and you will crimple the outside of the deck. Better off leaving it as it sits and filling it.

Agreed, if in doubt take it to a professional, but the ribbing is there to support and tension the decklid. If the two halves are not structurally joined then it will flex more and potentially enough for the corners to hit the rear fenders and chip paint, a common problem.

Julian

Some vendors think the typical 2200rpm-resonance drone from most Panteras might come from the separation of the decklid skin and support 'spider'. If anyone notices a reduction in this annoying noise after fixing the decklid, please post your fix and any conclusions.

I spoke with Dennis Quella, and his suggestion (I'm paraphrasing a bit) was auto body seam sealer, or ordinary window caulk. It needs good adhesion, some flexibility, some heat resistance, and be paintable.

I think Julian has the right idea with panel bonder adhesive IF the pieces are a close fit; mine are not, and doesn't appear that they ever were. The old stuff I scraped out of there was 1/4 inch thick in places. I tried bringing the skin panel and frame into contact, but that warped the skin seriously. I have the early deck lid skin with no ridge down the middle, so the metal just has no where to shrink or stretch gracefully.

This got me to thinking though - which to do first - caulk or paint? I think I will finish paint first, then caulk. That way if I'm not happy with the results, or it fails due to separation or heat, I may be able to do over without screwing up the paint. If I caulk first then paint, and something goes wrong, I've got two problems to fix.

I'll see if I can do a before and after comparison on the 2200 RPM resonance - my car does that too.

Thanks for the tips, Rod.

Seam filler is a caulking. If you use silicone caulk you can get it in colors./ I used black.

It bonds well enough not to stress out anything, remains flexible and looks appropriate.

If you use panel bonder, the stuff is not easy to clean the residue off.