While the car is down waiting for an engine, I'll be trying to call the body noises.
the deck lid I believe is the source for most of the noise. The web is no longer bonded to the sheet metal, what have you guys used to make this bond?
what other sources of noise/vibration are common places to address?
thanks
Dan
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Here is the one I used.
Steve, that looks like a winner to me!
how many did you use and do you have any pointers?
did it make a noise difference?
a company called secondskin makes a roll on/spray on product called spectrum, it's like a liquid Dynamat. I plan on using that if it lays down decent looking
It took two of the cartridges for the deck lid. The cartridges use a special gun. This stuff is a little pricey but it is good quality. The deck lid is very well bonded and does not make any noise. I carefully masked when applying it in an effort to avoid a sloppy look. I also sealed it with polyurethane caulk.
Steve can you post or text links to the gun product and caulk?
623-340-2436
Dan
Thanks Steve, what about the caulking?
I'll have to check this evening but I believe I used Evercoat FIB-813 Maxim Medium Set Bonding Adhesive with good results.
Here is the caulk:
Suggest you make sure whatever caulk material you put in there can take at least 130-or-so degrees F of heat. Even the roof panel gets too hot to touch during a CA summer, for an example
I verified what I used was the Evercoat. I found it in an old post.
Mark, your link is non-op. 🤷♂️
Larry
@bosswrench posted:Suggest you make sure whatever caulk material you put in there can take at least 130-or-so degrees F of heat. Even the roof panel gets too hot to touch during a CA summer, for an example
From the manufacturer of the polyurethane caulk:
Service Temperature
-40 to 170 °F (-40 to 76°C)
Larry, Hmmm.....let's try that again.
As far as I know, all you need is GE "Ultimate" silicone caulking. Home Depot and Lowes has it.
I installed it 15 years ago and it hasn't burned off or melted yet but even the NASA o-ring on the Challenger melted so there are no guarantees in life.
Be aware though that it holds so securely that you may wind up with it causing a transparency line through the finished surface on top.
I'd point out though there was never an adhesive ever intended by the factory for the deck. Rattling back there is caused by the twisting of the decklid which shows as chipped corners on the rear edges.
The race cars used a flexible rubber T-handle to keep the deck in place during competition which apparently was largely successful.
I think silicon is a good solution. The only issue is that paint does not stick to it and that is why I used polyurethane caulk over the 3M material. But now that I think about it, black silicon could work quite well.
Paint the underside before you install the silicone. I have a heat shield underneath for the 180's that conceals most of the spider.
