Dip stick & tube

Here is the oil pan:

Jan,
Can't speak for the Fontana, but with a regular Cleveland when you pull the bulkhead cover it will be right in your face.
Good luck,
Mike

Apologies to Garvino for using his pic

Thanks for the Cleveland photo. I scooted my arm under the car and took a photo in that same approximiate location as shown. I figure that is the dip stick traveling downward through the block toward oil pan, but can't quite feel around to see how it may be connected. Eventually proabably need to get it on my lift and feel her up. I would hate to get into taking the seats and bulk head out just to get at it to change it out with a new unit or rechrome it, but that may be the case

Is that the reason for the rusty dipstick?

It looks like you may have a leaky bolt on the water pump?

Thanks -

Chuck

Never seen one in the block itself but Fontana's most usually have the dipstick in the same locations as Windsors, on the timing cover. This feature wasn't drilled on the street cover castings as offered by Joe but that's what the majority of people did that used them on street cars. It will probably be pressed in but I've seen and used compression fittings drilled so the tube can be slid all the way through. I've also seen people add the provision to the side of the Cleveland oil pan as is also done on some later Windsors.

K

Does-200, the real issue may be- WHY is the stock dip-stick rusting? The only reason I can think of is crankcase condensation from living near the beach and not driving the car enough! The simplest way to attack the problem may be to pull the stick and have it chromed- at least that takes care of some of the problem and it will better match all that shiny stuff. On some 351-Cs in Panteras, the dipstick tubes were copper (solving any rust problems there), which you could also do to your Fontana, although you'd have to remove the old one for a pattern. It's likely a modified Windsor tube & stick.
Gary Hall fabricated a few things for the Fontana-powered Super-Panteras and no spare parts (or even patterns) are left. So measure the stick before sending it out- things get lost at plating shops!

Thanks for the input guys. The stick is just rusting near the top end, which you would think "what's the diff anyway". But it bothers me because I don't think that would be good when checking the oil level, taking the stick in and out may drive some of that minor rust down in to the pan (even if it is minor). Thanks for the advise on the tube, because I just took a visual look into the tube and it looked bronze in color and it didn't cling go a magnet that I applied to it, but the stick did cling to a magnet. So to me it seems the tube itself is probably copper, or maybe even bronze? So, it is good to hear I don't need to mess with the tube, as I believe copper or bronze doesn't rust. So if I chrome the stick, I would assume this may solve things (or at least worth a try). So is it ok to chrome the stick even though it is so flexible?

As far as driving the car, I drive it around at least every two to three weeks for at least 30 - 45 minutes in order to wake the neighborhood. I would drive it more often, but to tell you the truth having so many cars and not being retired to enjoy it all the time, it is becoming more like work than pleasure. I never thought I would say that, but keeping them up just cosmetically polishing stuff along with minor mechanical work can be taxing when past 55 years old and limiting my Monster consumption to one can/day

quote:

Originally posted by DOES 200:

As far as driving the car, I drive it around at least every two to three weeks for at least 30 - 45 minutes in order to wake the neighborhood. I would drive it more often, but to tell you the truth having so many cars and not being retired to enjoy it all the time, it is becoming more like work than pleasure. I never thought I would say that, but keeping them up just cosmetically polishing stuff along with minor mechanical work can be taxing when past 55 years old and limiting my Monster consumption to one can/day

Time to sell it!!!!!
;-)
Ron

quote:

Originally posted by r mccall:
Time to sell it!!!!!
;-)
Ron

Ha ha, when I need nursing home money down the road, maybe sell then, or if my Monster beverage stock dumps in the pits. In the mean time, always open for offers

On da dip stick, a vendor advised a new tube and to get it teflon coated since teflon is durable & less thick than chrome on the stick. Indicated condensation gets in the tube on occasion just like valve covers, and that the stick is just fabricated out of cheap drain snake steel such as from Home Depot and should probably be coated anyway when vendors make these.

The Fontana engine as it has been already stated here, has a flat spot on the timing cover where the dip stick tube goes in. This is the only photo that I have of mine, but I think you already have the idea. I can't comment on your rust issue.