Distributor Gear

Cam companies regard roller cams as race parts, and bronze distributor gears are easier/cheaper to grind than steel, so they supply these. There are two possibilities that I know of: 1)- some cam grinders will lathe off the front cam journal & gear, and press on a stock cast iron front end to your steel cam, allowing you to run a stock cast iron distributor drive gear. 2)- Crane Cams has very recently come out with a composite distributor gear that was tested in Busch racing, on steel cams, for a full year without wear. It's not clear how many engine types they offer it for, besides the belly-button 350 Chev. Besides that, bronze is the only other choice- about every 2000 miles.

Eureka! (I think). Crane cams lists a STEEL distributor gear to replace the bronze gear for the 351-C w/ .531 dia. shaft! (P/N 52971-1) Has anyone out there tried it on their steel roller cam yet? If so, what are your impressions? (Jack- you may want to add this item to your VERY impressive database of 351 & Pantera knowledge).

Regards

Craig

How about Electromotive ignition system, it uses crank trigger and 4 coils. I would guess they plug the distributer hole. I know the unit isn't cheap but it would solve your gear problem.
www.electromotive-inc.com/

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Originally posted by Jon3613:
How about Electromotive ignition system, it uses crank trigger and 4 coils. I would guess they plug the distributer hole. I know the unit isn't cheap but it would solve your gear problem.
www.electromotive-inc.com/

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Unfortunately, even a DIS system doesn't make the gear requirement go away- I still have to drive the oil pump (unless I dry-sump the motor). Thanks anyhow, though.

Craig

Jon, as far as running a crank trigger ignition in a 351-C, remember the distributor drive gear transfers power from the cam to the oil pump driveshaft. Unless you're running an external oil pump such as in a dy-sump system, at least the remnants of a distributor drive must be there.