Do I need power for manual headlights override?

The hand crack needs holding in and it has a low ratio, takes quite a few turns to see movement. Maybe it was stuck and PO has stripped the plastic gear teeth?

Yeah, no it’s not engaging at all no matter how much I turn it. Maybe the teeth on the knob are stripped, I can’t tell because it’s all enclosed. Not sure how to take it off/apart to see either? It’s so close to the radiator I hope I don’t have to remove that...

You really have to shove the knob into the fender hard to get it to engage.

If your plastic gear was cracked, once you got the knob engaged, you shouldn’t be able to turn it.  Since your lights work fine, I am assuming there is nothing wrong with the mechanism.

The whole motor assembly/plate can be removed without pulling the radiator, but it’s a bitch, due to the limited access. There are three 10mm bolts (IIRC) that hold the motor plate to the drivers side fender.

My gear broke, so I had to replace it.  It probably took 2-3 hours to get that assembly out, so you will want to avoid it if you can.

You can practice with one of your windows and your hand crank...  the mechanism is basically the same.

Rocky

I watched your video (I thought it was a picture at first), and you can hear the gears trying to engage when you push the knob in, and turn.

I should’ve clarified that was a video. I took a look at trying to remove it and i couldn’t get any wrenches or sockets to fit/reach all the bolts so that’s a no. I’ll look up how much of a job is it to take the radiator out now. Ugh. 

You couldn't get to them with the wheel well splash shield removed?

This may help:

https://pantera.infopop.cc/top...dlight-gear-assembly

Maybe (probably) I'm doing something wrong here... but I'm trying to reach around to the bottom right of the photo herebut I can't reach two bolts which are to the right of the small gear in this photo with a ratchet without hitting the radiator and a photo from above of the two bolts I’m talking about...

Would it help if you removed the headlight bucket?

I had to use a short open end wrench, and could only turn each bolt about 1/8 of a turn (or less).  I eventually got that plate out without removing the radiator or the headlight bucket, but it was a P-I-A.

It can be done.

I think I may have also disconnected/removed the limit switches for a little better access.

 Rocky

OK, I’ll try that before removing the headlight or just giving up... ha!

@husker posted:

Would it help if you removed the headlight bucket?

Well, duh. Can't remove the headlight bucket without it being raised. Sometimes I'm just not thinking.

You could also make a couple leads to a battery, and use them to drive the motor.

The motor connections are accessible through the splash panel.

It’s 50/50 that you hook them up correctly the first time!

@rocky posted:

You really have to shove the knob into the fender hard to get it to engage.

If your plastic gear was cracked, once you got the knob engaged, you shouldn’t be able to turn it.  Since your lights work fine, I am assuming there is nothing wrong with the mechanism.

The whole motor assembly/plate can be removed without pulling the radiator, but it’s a bitch, due to the limited access. There are three 10mm bolts (IIRC) that hold the motor plate to the drivers side fender.

My gear broke, so I had to replace it.  It probably took 2-3 hours to get that assembly out, so you will want to avoid it if you can.

You can practice with one of your windows and your hand crank...  the mechanism is basically the same.

 

Rocky

 

also the micro switch what is on top must be disassembled .

But when you dont have this done before whit the radiator  still in place it's better and easier to take out the radiator first.

also easier to adjust the engine mount plate on the gear, and the micro switches 

Simon

Yeah, it feels more and more like I'm going to have to take the radiator out if I want to fix the manual override. It looks like my dash is going to be another week anyway, so maybe this weekend...

taking off the fronthood makes it more easier to take out the radiator  .

this is a 2 man/wife job.

have you a carlift ?

whit the front lifted up before taking the radiator out makes the bleeding easier after replacing the radiator. And keep the pressure cap on the pressure tank.

You are sure that one of the 2 switches not is broken ?

hard to see on the pic's but the one what showed the underside of this looks not fresh.

That the manual knob not works as must be , will not say that the other part of the system is broken. Dont ask how I know this.

As Rocky mentioned , try first connect the 2 leads from the motor to a battery  before do something else . To be sure the switches are OK .

easiest from under the car.

Simon

I Always following those steps to check the gear.

check the switch , whit lights on , what not is pressed in by connect the 2 leads to eachother ,

thats the switch besides the radiator on top.

when you pull off one of the leads from this switch maybe you can see that the motor will turn but  stuck .

sometimes the motor will warm up a little , there is a safety thermic switch mounted on what gives a ,,click" when the motor stuck (clicks off and on ).

Or check the motor how Rocky explain , when the plastic gear is broken , the motor will turns a little .

take off the hood and  take the radiator out .

When you know how the system works and how to adjust probleby the next time ( other Pantera ) you can fix it whit out taking the radiator out .

But from the underside.

Simon

Thanks. I’ll give it a try this weekend before removing the radiator.