I changed the tubs on mt door locks reusing the lock however my locks don't turn to lock/unlock door. Did I miss something.
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They may be binding and the rods need adjusting to the new tubs, did you check function with the key prior to installing?
Troubleshooting door locks from a distance is a very difficult task. I understand the door locks as well as anybody and strongly advise anyone taking similar actions to remember to take LOTS of photographs.
there are very subtle differences between left-hand and right hand locks. I would advise owners to perform lock replacement actions on one side at a time, at least that way you will not inadvertently swap pieces to the wrong side.
If you share more of the process you performed we may be able to zero in on where are you made your apparent mistake.
Solid advise Larry.
Thanks for the comments. I did do one side at a time and everything was working before the change. The key is turning and the actuating rod from the tumbler is moving the attaching lever from the latch/lock mechanism up and down. With the door closed I turn the key and here the actuator moving in both directions however neither direction will lock the door. The push button for the lock on the drivers side is not moving at all, passenger side it moves slightly but pops back up on it's own. Still investigating. Thoughts would be appreciated.
One side at a time is good to hear.
did you remove, refurbish and reinstall One lock and then do the second lock?
Is it …possible… both were on the workbench at the same time and were switched upon reinstallation?
Larry, I only took out one side at a time using the one in place as a reference. Subsequently, both sides have been out but I cannot think of how I could have mixed side to side.
What really puzzles me is the drivers lock/latch mechanism and the lock rod now wanting to move.
I see that the rods between the door lock and the latch/lock lever has a bend to it, both sides. All references I see that rod should be straight. Which is correct?
That rod does have a bend to it.
I am not sure but I think you may have reinstalled the gray pot metal piece, the one with the ball on it, 180° from where it should be
that piece is side specific and can be installed 180° incorrectly
do you have reference photos taken before and during the process?
Sadly I don't as when I did it I did do one side at a time, I must have mixed them up when I have had them off after the initial time. The ball does face the key barrel, correct?
Yes, the ball does face the key barrel.
but how you clock the gray pot metal piece could be 180° Incorrect
I just realized I may have assumed something incorrectly
Did you remove the gray pot metal piece from your lock assemblies during your process?
Your thoughts were correct, I switch side to side and the locks function.
I have just rebuilt the gearboxes and replaced all the felts and feathers on the doors for 6997 and put in new door seals . Previously neither window worked and the seals and feathers looked awful .
After 2 solid days of work the windows now go up and down like rockets. You could loose an arm if you are not quick. God knows what the motor upgrades look like. The doors are transformed.
I have not looked at the locks yet but note that neither door lock button seems to work properly. Since I am into the doors where do I start for striker adjustment ,and lock assembly adjustment. I have not pulled anything apart at all on the lock assembly or the pull push buttons. The pael alignment hence door position is good but the strikers could be better.
Are there known weak points that need to be addressed?
Wow - just read the last 100 or so posts on door locks and strikers . There is more to this lock adjustment lark than meets the eye!
The existing striker screws look more like star drives than Philips heads from being hammered into oblivion at various points in the past . New mounting screws look like the first order required before starting anything on this. One month of penetrating oil on the screws will not hurt while i am waiting.....