Electric fuel pumps

I can tell you some of the pitfalls. Most electric pumps will have wiring problems that cause them to shut down, either in the pump itself ala every Jaguar ever built, or in the connections to power the pump. As far as Holley or Carter rotary pumps, don't EVER let them run dry! The tiny impeller wheel inside the pump is brazed or soldered together and the heating one gets when running dry will cause the impeller to disintegrate in time. And every such pump I ever ran was extremely noisy. If this is for a good reason- like fuel injection that requires a much higher pressure, I suggest an in-tank pump mounted on the fuel tank sender bracket. I have no experience with the new in-line high pressure pumps. If you have a '71-72 Pantera, I also suggest using the stock welded outlet on top as your fuel return and adding a '73-up fuel gauge sender that has a fuel-out line integral with the unit, and bolts in with zero changes. They're a bit pricey new so I fabricated such an outlet to my early fuel sender, in an article in the PI magazine of Winter '99. Having some sort of fuel plumbing hanging from your drain plug on a low, fast car like a Pantera is not only in-elegant, its a disaster-in-the-making from rocks & road debris IMHO.

Jack,
What brand of pump would you recommend for the intank inline setup?

Warning- I have not personally done this mod. First, remove the left rear quarter window for permanent access to the fuel tank top. Remove the sender; and the hole in the tank is (as I remember) about 2-1/4" dia, so any pump you use must clear the hole. I think the one shown in Jegs or Summit catologues as used for Ford EFI will clear, but I'd certainly measure the tank, then make a couple of phone calls before ordering. Don't have a catalogue handy so I can't tell you a brand. A bracket must be fabbricated to attach to the sender body and rigidly hold the pump. Be very careful in connecting the power wire- not due to sparks but because you need a dedicated 12V line that shuts off with the key or better- a toggle switch, and is not connceted to the ignition lead. Hooking things to the ignition hot-lead will effectively add a 4500-rpm rev-limiter to a 351C. Ignitions NEED 12v and any otrher devices lower the voltage so your sparks drop drastically. And not having a positive shut-off on any fuel pump is flirting with disaster- I once extinguished an engine fire 4 times on the same Porsche that spun on-track, stalled & flooded his engine which then caught fire. He had an electric fuel pump wired in a weird way.