Ground Clearance Question

quote:

the forward most rear lower A-Arm mount?

I'm confused.

rear suspension - check

lower A-arm - check

A-arm has two mounting points.

Are you asking for frame rail height above ground at a point in line with the front A-arm mount?

Larry

Rear lower A-Arm --> 2 Mounts (a forward and an aft)

Ground clearance (ground to bottom of frame) at the forward mount for the lower Rear A-arm

Added a picture as well to help.

Dave

Hello Hockey Dude; What type of aluminum engine are you using & intended carburetion system?...Thanks!...Mark

these are the types of dimensions I wish were readily available.

I just made some quick measurements of my rear upright. You might want to verify if your upright is available to get a good measurement

to determine ground clearance at the frame

one half of your wheel diamater minus the upright (6.7") and either add or subtract the amount of A arm angle.

Thanks JFB!!

Looks like about 5.25" to the bottom of the frame rail in my case, so can't really let anything protrude too much, skid plate or not.

Mark, I've gone off reservation with my build. I opted to go full custom, car had a lot of rust when I got it (not quite graveyard but close), fixed it and then started modding everything. I rolled custom group 4 fenders, did a custom fiberglass interior, suspension and steering mods, full cage, basically redid everything. I like the pantera, but wanted to modernize it. So regarding the drivetrain I'm going to be running ~750hp LS7, Harrop ITB manifold (fuel injection), and 996TT gearbox.

I've dropped the engine ~3-4" already when compared to a stock cleveland, got to drop it again in order to work with the diff placement on the 996 box. Bigger PITA then I anticipated based off dimensions, going to be about halfway to a backhalf to run this box.

Dave

Hello Dave; I APPLAUD your EFFORTS & SKILLS!!!.

The LS7 is a GREAT ENGINE as is the 996 Getrag 6 speed!!!

With the right suspension & aerodynamics you might achieve the mythical & prestigious "200+ MPH Club"!!!

What rotors & calipers are you planning on using?...Possibly from a 996?

Are you going to utilize 180 headers?

Any plans on venting the body for brake cooling ducting?

Any thoughts on completed weight of the "Custom" Pantera when completed?

Be interesting to know if you weigh the Pantera, what the weights of each corner will be?...also the weigh distribution.

With using the All aluminum LS7 engine you might achieve the "MAGIC" 50/50 weight distribution.

Are you going to change the existing fuel tank location to the front?

A major consideration & I personally believe a MUST when thinking about "TIGHT" control of speeds over 150 ( Just my opinion)

DAMN Dave!!!...I'm EXCITED about your project!!!...

Light weight "Custom" Pantera with a lowered drive train, 750 HP mated to a Getrag 6 speed...WOW!!!...Mark

quote:

Originally posted by JFB #05177:
these are the types of dimensions I wish were readily available.

I just made some quick measurements of my rear upright. You might want to verify if your upright is available to get a good measurement

to determine ground clearance at the frame

one half of your wheel diamater minus the upright (6.7") and either add or subtract the amount of A arm angle.

Hello JFB; As a 57 year old who's Japanese girlfriend just taught my how to "cut & paste", I'm envious of your computer skills.

Man would I be Dangerous with some computer skills!!!

As of now...more like a 1st grader with a 1/2 box of broken crayons!!! ...Mark

I am longer in tooth (couple years anyway)

I was laugh at in my early career for using colored pencils to highlight drawings. I am using the minimalistic amout of computer savy, but find MSPaint and the prolifiration of drawings in PDF to be a blessing. (still keep a box of color pencils in the old brief case)

Mark,

I'm going to quickly answer your questions, if there's that much interest in my car we can start another thread.

Not really going for top speed, I'll be just as dead if something goes south on the track at 120+, as 200, but I am trying to improve the car overall.

Rotors and calipers are custom 14" set up. 1.25" vented rotors with willwood W6A calipers up front and W4A calipers out back (big boys).

I have no idea what the exhaust will be, the engine is so low now that an "over the top of the engine" exhaust like 180s may just look odd.

No brake vents yet, not sure if I'm really going to need them since I don't plan to race this car, just track days. I will address aero once I get the drivetrain finished and may add brake ducting at that point.

Even though its a '71, I'm guessing its going to come out around 3000#. I have an affinity for steel, and have done a bunch of bracing, doublers and the cage. If it came out at 2700# I'd be thrilled but doubt it.

I've gone nuts on placement of components to try to keep all the weight as far forward and as low as possible. I still doubt 50/50 will happen though.

No I'm going to do a custom fuel tank in the stock location, I want to keep the front trunk.

Here's a pic of the last time I had it on its wheels.

Dave

Looks good!

Nice work on the flares...

Rocky

quote:

Looks good!

Nice work on the flares...

Hello Dave; for answering my myriad of questions.

Being that your drivetrain is lowered, an "over the engine exhaust", might benefit you in a number of ways...

"1"...180 exhaust combined with rear deck lid venting/ louvering would definitely vent the engine compartment of hot air the fastest.
"2"...Running 180s will keep the header tubes AWAY from your aluminum block & your Getrag 6 speed better than down swept headers with the distinct possibility of a cooler running engine/transmission.
"3"...Allows the exhaust to exit the center of the car, thus leaving either side for oil/transmission coolers with fans.
"4"...NOTHING SOUNDS BETTER & FLOWS BETTER THAN 180's!!!...Mark

Where in Virginia?
I'm in North Carolina just south of Virginia border near Martinsville

Tomcat, I'm up in NOVA, near Dulles Airport.

Mark, I'm really not sure if the 180s will work, there's just a bunch of "stuff" going on in that area, plus it may just look odd I'm afraid. The diff is also so high in this set up that 180s will in actuality be quite close to the trans.

Attached a pic which might help convey the problem, motor is about .75" lower now than in the pic.

Dave