I know this sounds strange, but my clutch pedal seems to be very stiff, is there a way of adjusting this? The muscle in my left leg is starting to dwarf the right. Thank you in advance for any replies.
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Early Panteras made prior to about mid-72 did not receive the "effort reduction kit" that was added to the L models. So, depending on the spring and lever ratio in your clutch, the clutch pedal can be VERY stiff and interfere with your driving pleasure. If your Pantera is indeed a pre-L model, I suggest you change the clutche to a diaphragm type such as Centerforce, stocked by all the Pantera parts vendors. After what you likely have had to put up with, a new Centerforce will likely feel like no clutch is hooked to your pedal at all! And yet they are a true bolt-in, capable of holding over 450 horses. I know of no other sure-fire way to ease the load on your leg. The effort-reduction kit is not really an answer (nor very cheap, either) since it was actually an over-center linkage to ease holding the clutch in at stop-lights, a very dangerous practice indeed.
I'm not a mechanic, but I try to be informed and have read the TSB's. The TSB that Jack DeRyke refers to is Article No. 49 "High Clutch Pedal Effort", Bulletin No. 6, pp. 5-8., June 1, 1973.
I also refer you to the May 26, 1972, TSB No. 1, Article No. 5. p. 3, "Revised Transaxle Service Procedure". In a nutshell:, if you gotta take out the transaxle, then discard the two (2) springs on the 'clutch release cross shaft' as shown in figure 2.
Mine is a 1973 L Pantera, and I made the presumption that the Modena, Italy De Tomaso Factory did this on all post May 1972 Panteras. (Incorporated their TSB's on their production output.) My production date is January 1973, by the VIN decoder website provided by one of our knowledgable bretheren.
None the less, my clutch was still stiff, and it's NOT 450 H.P., more like 300 +/- and I'm not using that much of the powerband 99.9% of the time.
So, to my thinking, the clutch disengagement engineering is perhaps a little overdesigned, and not one who's afraid to experiment a little, I decided to analyze theory a little more. The springs are all for disengagement, except on the clutch pressure plate, thus, to reduce any slipping of the clutch once the clutch is fully engaged (maximum friction for full delivey of power to the wheels [my terminology may not be exact]). Basically, all other springs are designed to push the hydraulic fluid back into the clutch master cylinder.
In any event, my experiment was to just remove the spring at the clutch slave cylinder altogether, but 'not discard' it. (In the event I need(ed) it again.) Maybe I was gonna need a slightly less strenghty spring, but road testing goes on with NO SPRING, and I'm not experiencing any drag on the clutch, as determind by 'slippage,' but I not burning rubber, slamming gears. I'll let the clutch out and let the engine pull some G-loads on my neck once in a while, but I want the engine to do that and save the clutch and ZF.
What's the worst case scenario? Dragging on the clutch? (This will cause extra wear on the clutch, if it is occurring.) I figure, someone here may tell me if I'm wrong, or if not, then I'll go with a Centerforce clutch someday, with a hydraulic throw out bearing, to reduce mechanical reistance and increase responsiveness.
Do this at your own risk, 'cause I'm playing with my toy and love tinkering with in and admire the engineering that went into it.... But sometimes I have to do things two (2) or three (3) times to get it right. And when I'm incorrect, it's great to learn from someone who knows better than me. That's how I learn, or the hard way, or sometimes just clear thinking actually works!
I also refer you to the May 26, 1972, TSB No. 1, Article No. 5. p. 3, "Revised Transaxle Service Procedure". In a nutshell:, if you gotta take out the transaxle, then discard the two (2) springs on the 'clutch release cross shaft' as shown in figure 2.
Mine is a 1973 L Pantera, and I made the presumption that the Modena, Italy De Tomaso Factory did this on all post May 1972 Panteras. (Incorporated their TSB's on their production output.) My production date is January 1973, by the VIN decoder website provided by one of our knowledgable bretheren.
None the less, my clutch was still stiff, and it's NOT 450 H.P., more like 300 +/- and I'm not using that much of the powerband 99.9% of the time.
So, to my thinking, the clutch disengagement engineering is perhaps a little overdesigned, and not one who's afraid to experiment a little, I decided to analyze theory a little more. The springs are all for disengagement, except on the clutch pressure plate, thus, to reduce any slipping of the clutch once the clutch is fully engaged (maximum friction for full delivey of power to the wheels [my terminology may not be exact]). Basically, all other springs are designed to push the hydraulic fluid back into the clutch master cylinder.
In any event, my experiment was to just remove the spring at the clutch slave cylinder altogether, but 'not discard' it. (In the event I need(ed) it again.) Maybe I was gonna need a slightly less strenghty spring, but road testing goes on with NO SPRING, and I'm not experiencing any drag on the clutch, as determind by 'slippage,' but I not burning rubber, slamming gears. I'll let the clutch out and let the engine pull some G-loads on my neck once in a while, but I want the engine to do that and save the clutch and ZF.
What's the worst case scenario? Dragging on the clutch? (This will cause extra wear on the clutch, if it is occurring.) I figure, someone here may tell me if I'm wrong, or if not, then I'll go with a Centerforce clutch someday, with a hydraulic throw out bearing, to reduce mechanical reistance and increase responsiveness.
Do this at your own risk, 'cause I'm playing with my toy and love tinkering with in and admire the engineering that went into it.... But sometimes I have to do things two (2) or three (3) times to get it right. And when I'm incorrect, it's great to learn from someone who knows better than me. That's how I learn, or the hard way, or sometimes just clear thinking actually works!