Headlight covers

It could be the Micro limiting switch that limits how far open the covers/doors go. It is located at the TOP, and far Left(LH drivers) CORNER of the RADIATOR. The switch should have the curcuit "Closed" when the doors are down. Then after the motor opens the doors, the switch is hit by the actuating gear, "opens" the curcuit and the motor stops. Imagine what would happen if the switch was missed. You can test this switch by using a jumper wire across the TWO wires leading to it's contacts. Your problem could also be in the "Headlight Door" RELAY, located behind the access door at the Drivers left leg, on most models. OR/AND in the wireing in between. Also! It could be as simple as the fuse, BLOWN or just LOOSE in corroded contacts. Good-Luck. Marlin. P.S. Since the doors will lower, we know the Motor is NOT burned-out. You might check to see if any wires have come off the back of the headlight Switch.

[This message has been edited by MARLIN JACK (edited 03-08-2004).]

[This message has been edited by MARLIN JACK (edited 03-08-2004).]

[This message has been edited by MARLIN JACK (edited 03-08-2004).]

One more thing!!! If you DO test the limiting switch by jumping the two wires that go to it! Be sure to make contact MOMENTARILY, so you can BE SURE to stop the motor as soon as the covers are fully open. Going beyond this point would cause severe damage! Marlin.

As in everything, the Lucas limiting microswitches are corrosin-prone. But by removing the two tiny mounting screws, the switch top comes off and Radio Shack Contact Cleaner can be sprayed inside, directly on the switch contacts. This often fixes things. Another possibility is the connection on the drive motor- for reasons I've never understood (probably having to do with reversing the motor direction) both the ground and hot wires to the drive motor are insulated, and one uses a phenolic bushing with a brass splice-connector to both retain the wire and to solidly mount the motor. The phenolic sometimes weathers enough to soak up water and introduce a partial short. Its complicaed a little because the wire pig-tail coming from the motor is extremely short in length. I unplugged the wire from the phenolic bushing, junked the brass connector and zip-tied the wire, so the bolt is now just a motor mount. FYI- the motor & gearbox is identical to the window lifts, and the same plastic gear breakage occurs. When replacing the door lift gears with brass, I suggest also replacing the headlight lift gear with a brass one.

So greatfull for help and tips !

I have changed the gear to bronze, The light switch is new, and the connectors should be OK. The jumper wire for the micro switch does not work.
I have connected another 12V. source directly to the motor, and it runs both ways.
Even though the upward motion is with much more effort.
I don�t have any relay at drivers side, but
behind the fuse box on the right hand side, under the glovebox, are total 3 realys, 1 is for shure the turn signal relay, then there are 2 more. One with yellow coloured wires, could this be the part that is causing the trouble ?

Hi. Did you check the fuse connection?
If you have the original fuse block with the ceramic fuse's they sometime's get a light coating of corrosion on the end's causing a bad connection. I found this on my car a while back. cleaned the end's of the fuse
and it's been fine since. JOHN.

Snip..... I don�t have any relay at drivers side, but behind the fuse box on the right hand side, under the glovebox, are total 3 realys, 1 is for shure the turn signal relay, then there are 2 more. One with yellow coloured wires, could this be the part that is causing the trouble ?

You have a pre-L model. DeTomaso changed the relay location in mid-'72. Don't depend on wire color to trouble-shoot, as there are at least 4 different wiring diagrams, none of which are likely to be 100% correct, and some wires change color in mid-run. Use a V.O.M to trace wires. The headlight up-stroke is slow possibly because the buckets and supports weigh 25 lbs. If you're in the U.S, Busse Fuses make 'GBC'-type glass fuses with pointy ends for Euro fuse holders, which are also corrosion-prone. The glass GBS type fuses cure this permanently.

Traced the yellow/black wire from micro switch to the relay, wire and conection OK.
Relay tested, and found OK.
The relay engage when the ignition is turned on. The yellow wire that leads to the relay is dead.Is this from the light switch or from ignition switch ?

The yellow wire is only hot when the lights are off and the ignition is on. I suggest you go to the pantera place web site and click technical information. Scroll down to electrical, click and go to SOBill's wiring diagrams. This circuit is shown very clearly there.
Good luck.

YES!! You reminded me of one point! The headlight buckets (on my '74L) WILL lower with the Ignition Key in the OFF position, when the MAIN Headlight Switch is turned OFF. But they WILL NOT RAISE until the key is turned to the "Engine Run" Position. So BE SURE the Ign. Key is fully ON when you do your testing! Marlin.

[This message has been edited by MARLIN JACK (edited 03-10-2004).]

Finaly found the cause!
The connection to the negative/ground main terminal on backside of the dashboard was not good for the cable to the relays.
Fixed, and now working good !
Thks for great help and support !