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The interior on my 1972 Pantera is originalā€¦ no question about! You sit down and a cloud of foam dust is exiting the seat cushion left and right where the seat back is attachedā€¦and the seat vinyl is not prepared to stretch anymore it will rip if you sit in with a spirited motion!

The glue holding the vinyl on the tunnel covers covering the heater box decided to be sticky but refuses to hold anything..

somebody decided to put loudspeaker holes in the door panels and those previous mentioned tunnel covers..

parts of the vinyl on the dashboard, the lifting offā€¦

couple holes in the vinyl of the engine, bump coverā€¦

It feels very ā€œcave likeā€ when you open the door and get insideā€¦ rustic and darkā€¦all business!

and right now all those bits and pieces are out of the carā€¦. Just live with itā€¦??

but whatā€™s it gonna be ā€¦.?????

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Last edited by LeMans850i
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I also rebuilt the 8mm thin strip over the top of the heater control panel rebate so there was no visible gap above the control panel  when fitted into the dash .

I convinced myself this had been cut out or broken out by others sometime in the past and was in fact missing. Now I have seen yours I am not so sure ! Mine looked the same as your photo but rougher.

Once the thin strip bridged the top the dash panel was allot stiffer. You can still maneuver  the assembled control facia and linkages in and the panel sits on four continuous edges not three.

In hindsight I would still do this. dash shell refurb

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50 years is a pretty nice longevity all things considered. Vinyl will outlast anything but I thought that the species it derives from went extinct?

I have found personally that the adhesives available to use in combination with the upholstery foams is only good for about 20 years.

There are some surprisingly difficult decisions to make. I don't aim at 50 years now. 20 years is even doubtful as well?

Good quality leathers will last 20 years or more. The stitching done on the original dash covers is close to being impossible now to duplicate. Even the thread quality and composition enters into the picture now as well.

The seamstresses used back then are beyond just plain high quality talent. It is almost "Godlike" if you ask me.

You can find leather workers that can do wallets but those are only a stitch run of a few inches at a time. Nothing like a dash as complex as a Pantera type 1 dash.

@LeMans850i posted:

@panteradoug doing this kind of work is art ā€¦ and doing it in two tone like I decided to have in my car makes it twice as unforgiving! My upholstery guy did pretty good I think! Fun fact: the leather is from Italyā€¦ coincidence???

European leather is the best. North American leather is generally scared. We used what was labeled at the time as Mercedes Benz leather. Others here use "furniture grade" leather which is generally not as soft and pliable.

Best of luck on the outcome.

The later cars had the short harnesses coming off the backs of the speedo and tach like that. Making individual wire connections from behind after the instruments are installed in the dash is not as much fun as connecting one multipin socket

That orange wire should be the backlight for the tach which goes into the remaining bulb holder hole there on the back.

Good place for one of the Jon Haas LEDs. really brightens it up. Speedo too.

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@larryw posted:

The later cars had the short harnesses coming off the backs of the speedo and tach like that. Making individual wire connections from behind after the instruments are installed in the dash is not as much fun as connecting one multipin socket

That orange wire should be the backlight for the tach which goes into the remaining bulb holder hole there on the back.

Good place for one of the Jon Haas LEDs. really brightens it up. Speedo too.

Thank you very muchā€¦ grasshopper is still learningā€¦ā€¼ļø

Good reminder Larry.

In addition be careful with those replacement bayonet LED strips.

They tend to be fairly loose in the mounting socket - I think the LED mounts are slightly skinner than the bayonet bulb they replace. They can therefore subsequently fall out and rattle around inside the instrument. 

Try to get them as tight as possible by closing up the mount.  Make sure they are firm.

@LeMans850i posted:

Fuel pressure, Parking brake light , push start,  ignition lock.

above is going to be the fan switch and the switch for the water heater valve.

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...I am Highly Impressed with Your Metal Work...along with Your Drawing, all is Outstanding!

I went with RED LED's in the Dash, RED appears 'Fuzzy', But doe's Not ruin one's 'Night Vision'. All Aircraft Cockpit Gauges are Lighted in RED. Also did the Push to Start and Full Manual control of all Rad Fans.

MJ

Last edited by marlinjack
@marlinjack posted:

...I am Highly Impressed with Your Metal Work...along with Your Drawing, all is Outstanding!

I went with RED LED's in the Dash, RED appears 'Fuzzy', But doe's Not ruin one's 'Night Vision'. All Aircraft Cockpit Gauges are Lighted in RED. Also did the Push to Start and Full Manual control of all Rad Fans.

MJ

I was working in Aviation for the last 30 years and built an airplane (as taildragger and later on amphibious floats all aluminum) and Iā€™m still here to tell aboutā€¦

thank you for the complimentā€¦ itā€™s a biggie coming from you!!

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