Headlights

Mine don't work either. But they did before I replaced my ignition switch with a re-keyed one! I read somewhere that there is a lead going to the ignition that works the relay for the headlight motor--makes sense: the lights have no reason to go up if the ignition is off. Can anyone verify this, or am I barking up the wrong tree?

If you haven't found the Pantera Place yet, there are wiring diagrams for specific components. And for just the headlights and headlight doors, there are a couple of pages (I have a big laminated wiring diagram for the car, but I rarely refer to it since finding these) ...

Headlight Wiring p1

Headlight Wiring p2

A description of the Headlight Door Circuit and PDF scematic ...
Door Circuit Details
Door Circuit Schematics

You might also (as time, funds, and interest permit) consider the offerings from Pantera Electronics (ATO Fuse panel, Headlight Motor Controller etc.) ... but I'd think you'd want to have things functioning properly first, then take on upgrades/mods. - The installation manual gives some additional insights into the functioning of the headlight circuit, so it's probably worth skimming if you find the other links aren't enough to get you going.

Pantera Electronics HMC

I sure am glad I found this forum. It is to Panteras what Bimmerforms.com is to BMWs. PRICELESS.

Took some head scratching to get a grip on the headlight wiring diagrams. Not much like what I used to seeing on domestic, BMW, and Air Force ground radar schematics !!!!! So, here is what I have gleaned from the diagrams and the car (a 72 pre-L). Right now the motor plate with switches and all the other goodies is out of the car. Before being removed, the lights do work, but the motor did no raise the buckets. I have bench tested the motor and it functions. The limit switches also work as designed. At the moment I can hear a relay in the right side of the dash clicking when the HL switches is rocked over fully to the right. With a test light connected to the yellow lead at the motor and ground, the light is ON until HL switch is set to tunr the HLs on, and then the test light goes out. If I am reading "Page 2 of 2" correctly, +12V is switched from yellow to BR (although the color at the motor looks black, not brown). As I am looking at the diagram, I see that I need to make some more checks to check for the change in voltage supply and ground. That said, any idea why the lights aren't popping up??

(More after I get back from the car and doing more checks.)

Inside the head light lift motors is a plastic gear. This gear basically becomes destroyed due to age and the electric motor just spins accomplishing nothing. Fortunately the vendors sell a brass gear as a replacemnt the should fix it if that is in fact the problem.

I had a similar situation. You said you bench tested the limit switches & motor, all work. You also said the relay works (my headlight relay is on the driver side behind a kick panel). The headlight relay is very expensive.

With the above being said, I suspect there is very good chance the limit switches and or the motor is not wired correctly to the specific terminals, wires mixed up OR a broken wire somewhere. Send me an email & I will forward the correct wire colors to the correct terminals, dave4604(at)sbcglobal.net. Replace (at) with @.

You can test for a wire break by testing continuity from each end of the wire. You will have to remove the wires you test from the headlight relay. Take a picture before removing the wires to insure you get them back to the right position on the relay terminal.

My problem was I reversed a pair of wires, one on each limit s/w. I'm not that slick with the wiring but the trouble shooting information worked very well for me. I even took the relay apart & cleaned the contacts. Thankfully the contacts we not welded closed! The great help I received was from the best guy, SOBill Taylor. Thanks again SOBill.

Thanks for the responses. I have it sorted. No issues with wiring. As I was typing the above post, I was getting a better understanding how the power was bieng routed and re-routed. At first I thought those Italians were crazy, but then I realized how well the circuitry was routed. Anyway, the motor is working properly, BUT, at the moment the assembly is NOT installed and the buckets sure are heavy. I have completely disassembled the gearbox to find NOT a worn main gear, but one that has a (radial) split. So, metal gear ordered. I'll completely clean the gearbox of solidified dino goop and put something better in there. I need to sort out the manual gear knob drive stuff so it does not engage by itself. Anybody know where I can get a new grommet?