Heat Riser & Edelbrock Performer 4V

Does that Edelbrock Performer have an exhaust gas crossover? I didn't think they did and suspect not going by the gasket they recommended. Not really needed as aluminum conducts heat a lot better than the stock cast iron intake that benefits from the hot exhaust gas circulation.

Assuming the manifold doesn't have the exhaust gas crossover then you don't need a turkey tray, it just gets in the way IMO. It's function is to stop oil buning or coking on the underside of the manifold exhaust crossover. I think most people recommend to install the steel shims so that hot gas is not in direct contact with the gasket. I assume you are not still using the oem stove pipe style choke that is heated via the exhaust gas crossover?

Good luck,
Julian

Unless the gasket material is a ceramic or asbestos material (the A3 gaskets are) then you need to shield the gasket from the exhaust heat.

Also if you block the heat riser and drive the car in under 20 degree air temperatures the carb will freeze up on an aluminum intake manifold.

The Mr.Gasket gaskets come with a square stamped steel heat passage block.

You need to tack them in place first so they don't fall out when you place the manifold on.

I went through that process a number of years ago and found that my engine did not run well with the heat riser blocked off. It took forever for it to idle well on warm up. After much painful messing around I ended up going with just the turkey pan. It is documented on this page http://www.panteraplace.com/page131.htm

Mike

Julian, Doug, and Mike – thanks for all your help.

I do believe that my Edelbrock Performer has an exhaust gas crossover (an open tunnel where the heat riser port is running underneath the carburetor from the left side to the right side of the motor– is that what you’re talking about?). The model number on the Edelbrock Performer is #2665. I will run to the shop and check it later today.

I am pretty sure that the Fel-Pro gasket material is just plain old gasket material. Also I tell my self that I may drive the car in under 20 degree weather since it can be nice and dry here in the winter but just very cold. The truth is that I have an old Mustang that I rarely drive when it is extremely cold out – so maybe on driving the Pantera in cold weather I guess.

Thanks again. I really appreciate everyone’s advice.

I have frosted more then a few carbs. As a result anything with an aluminum intake isn't fun to drive when it is cold.

There is a reason why iron is the material of choice for everyday use.

My Felpros for my A3 heads are or a high mineral content. In other words asbestos but they aren't so marked.

The turkey tray is there for a reason too. I'd go stock with that Edelbrock.

quote:

Edelbrock Performer is #2665

The installation instructions for the 2665 does not specify not installing the turkey tray but does not say not to install it either. My Torker intake (#2760)uses the same felpro gasket. The instruction sheet for the torker does say specifically not to use the stock turkey tray in the instructions.
I would suggest calling or email their technical hotline and see what they say.

Good luck with that.

FWIW, stock iron intakes use exhaust gasses routed thru a heat-riser passage from the heads into the intake manifold bottom as part of the smog-dictated instant-warm-up system. Oil splashes up on the very hot manifold base while you're driving and turns to char, which washes down into the pan, works its way past the oil pump pickup screen and can lock up or break the distributor drive gear pin and/or the oil pump driveshaft.
If you're using an intake WITHOUT the heat riser port open (a scissors-cut piece of steel beer can is traditionally used to block them off), the intake bottom will not get so hot as to char splash-oil, so it can safely be left off.
In addition, aluminum intakes will indent when tightened against steel-shim gaskets such as the so-called 'turkey-tray'. This often causes leaks if you subsequently remove that intake since you will NEVER perfectly match up the indents again. I recommend ALWAYS using composite intake gaskets on aluminum parts- either heads or intakes. If your aluminum intake has a heat-riser passage and you still use it, cut the port seal areas off a used turkey-tray and simply lay it in the valley between your good composite gaskets, maybe with a dab of RTV to hold it. It will work the same- as an oil splash-shield- as if it was bolted down and will not cause trouble. And you save $25 for a scarce new turkey-tray, which are never included in top-end-overhaul gasket kits.